The Var is a picturesque region in the South of France, with quaint villages, vibrant markets and historical sites just waiting to be discovered. When it comes to Var tourism, the region’s charm lies in its ancient streets and sun-drenched beaches. Visitors will find themselves entranced by the laid-back atmosphere and timeless beauty of the area.
Hyères
‘I was only happy once: that was at Hyères,’ Robert Louis Stevenson wrote to his cousin, Sidney Colvin, in March 1891. At the time, Hyères was a popular winter health resort, frequented by the aristocracy. It also served as an artistic and literary haven where notable figures such as Victor Hugo, Leo Tolstoy, Rudyard Kipling, D.H. Lawrence, F. Scott Fitzgerald and Edith Wharton sought inspiration.
I was thrilled to embark on my tour of the Var in this charming town, the oldest resort on the French Riviera. Its medieval centre, with winding streets and quaint shops, contrasts with the newer district featuring grand villas from the Victorian era. The old town, perched atop a hill, overlooks the scenic Golden Isles archipelago and offers a delightful blend of history and natural beauty.
Among the places I visited were:
• Château d’Hyères. The ruins of an 11th-century castle tower high above the town, giving panoramic views of the city and the Mediterranean Sea.
• Saint Paul Church. This is a 12th-century Provençal Romanesque building, with a Gothic nave added in the 14th century.
• Templars Tower. A magnificent 12th-century tower, constructed by the Knights Templar, now serves as an exhibition space.
• Villa Noailles. An impressive modernist villa, constructed in the 1920s for Charles and Marie-Laure de Noailles, it served as a hub for modern art, hosting luminaries like Dalí, Miró, Cocteau and Picasso. Today, it remains a vibrant centre of creativity, hosting events like the International Festival of Fashion.
• Bank Museum. This renovated old bank, restored with its original decor, houses over 8,000 works of art and is complemented by a beautiful garden and the preserved vault room.
• Fondation Carmignac. Established by Édouard Carmignac in 2000 on Porquerolles Island, a quick boat ride from the coast, the museum boasts works by renowned artists like Ernst, Warhol, Basquiat, Lichtenstein and Haring.
Bormes-les-Mimosas
After leaving Hyères, I headed towards Saint-Tropez, taking a break in Bormes-les-Mimosas along the way. A highlight of Var tourism and known as one of the most beautiful villages in southern France, it certainly didn’t disappoint. It’s a medieval village perched on a steep hill, with beautiful stonework, cobbled streets and blooming flowers at every turn. The tourist office provides maps, and guided tours of the village can be arranged.
I first climbed to Château des Seigneurs, a castle at the highest point of the village that provides stunning views of the terracotta rooftops across the village and over the Mediterranean coast. I then followed the myriad of narrow cobbled streets where I found interesting shops, boutiques, art galleries and cafes.
I enjoyed coffee at Lou Portaou, a quaint restaurant tucked beneath a medieval arch. Offering both outdoor seating and indoor dining, the cave-like ambience adds to its charm.
One of my favourite spots was Les Bibis du Midi, the boutique studio of Clémence Grisot. Here, visitors can witness her craftsmanship first-hand as her workspace is integrated with the shop. Visitors can watch her create the hats that have made her name or peruse her collection of headwear, each meticulously handcrafted.
Saint-Tropez
Saint-Tropez is an essential part of Var tourism however, despite its modern-day ultra-glamorous image, this town began as a humble fishing village and has a captivating history that echoes through its timeless streets and storied landmarks.
Established by the Phocaeans in 599 BC and known as Athenopolis, the town has been influenced by various civilisations throughout its history. Its modern name pays homage to the Holy Martyr Torpis, and its motto – Ad usque fidelis, meaning ‘faithful to the end’ – reflects the unwavering commitment of its residents to their community and heritage. Saint-Tropez natives maintain a profound devotion to their patron saint, as is evidenced by the presence of his statue in every business establishment.
On my arrival, I promptly made my way to the old port, brimming with stunning yachts, stylish boutiques, and inviting outdoor restaurants and cafes. It’s an ideal spot to savour lunch while people-watching or to enjoy a coffee with a tarte tropézienne, a fluffy brioche bun filled with cream. Little fishing boats dock here daily, bringing fresh fish to sell at the local market. As I wandered away from the port to explore the old town, I discovered a palpable sense of history, arts and culture, with some not-to-be-missed highlights awaiting me.
• Musée de l’Annonciade. Founded in 1922, the museum underscores Saint-Tropez’s significance as a centre for avant-garde painting in the early 20th century. The Neo-Impressionist painter Paul Signac arrived here in 1892 and set up a studio where he hosted numerous painters. Enthralled by its light, landscapes and unhurried lifestyle, he wrote to his mother, ‘There is enough material to work on for the rest of my days. Happiness – that is what I have just discovered.’ Works here are primarily from the Pointillist, Nabis and Fauvist movements by Signac, Matisse, Klee, Seurat and Gauguin. Cubists Braque and Picasso are also represented.
• Citadelle de Saint-Tropez. Constructed between 1602 and 1607 as part of the village’s defence system, the citadel’s old cannons are still in place, facing the sea. Within its dungeons lies the Musée de l’Histoire Maritime, dedicated to the history of Saint-Tropez and its relationship with the sea.
• Eglise Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption. This is a quintessential Saint-Tropez landmark, with its bright ochre and earthy sienna-coloured bell tower. This baroque-style church, built in 1784, replaced an older 16th-century church. There had been an earlier 11th-century religious construction on this same site. Inside the church, visitors can see the bust of Saint-Tropez and the bust of Saint Pierre, patron saint of fishermen and masons.
• Atelier Rondini. This boutique-atelier, established in 1927, is where hand-made sandals, called Les Tropéziennes, have been manufactured in myriad colours and styles by three generations of the same family.
Seillans
For my next stop, Seillans, I travelled a little inland to discover a picturesque and historic mountain village with a wonderful feudal castle and a 12th-century church. Here are some highlights:
• Maison Waldberg. Located on Place du Thouron, a pretty square with a 17th-century fountain. The tourist office on the ground floor provided me with a map to guide me through the maze of narrow cobbled streets and winding stone steps. The upper floors house a permanent exhibition of lithographs by surrealist artist Max Ernst, who lived in Seillans from 1964 until he died in 1976. There are also works by his wife, Dorothea Tanning.
• Route de la Parfumerie. Commemorates a remarkable woman from the late 19th century. The village had endured two epidemics of cholera while a severe blight put local vineyards out of business. Inspired by the perfumeries of nearby Grasse, Viscountess de Savigny de Moncorps set up a perfume factory to aid the area’s struggling economy.
Montauroux
This small village on the eastern side of the Var was my final stop. There was a very special place that I wanted to visit here. Saint Barthélemy Chapel was built during the 17th century on the ruins of Montauroux’s fortification. It was once the property of Christian Dior, who restored it and bequeathed it to the village. It’s classified as a historic monument for the painted wooden panels that line the interior walls and its barrel vault.
- ‘Exploring the Var in the South of France’ is published in Anthology Volume 21. Read more features from this volume or buy it now.
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