The Sacred Valley

Words and Photos Dearbhaile Ní Dhubhghaill

In the heart of the Andes, a sparkling river, bordered by swaying yellow grass, misty forests and carelessly strewn boulders, cuts a deep path between sharp mountain peaks. Though the Urubamba River meanders for over seven hundred kilometres through Peru, the stretch between Pisac and Aguas Calientes is by far the most visited. This is the Sacred Valley, heart of the once-great Incan Empire. 

Just a short distance north of Cusco, the Incan capital, the Sacred Valley is where most visitors to the country spend their time. And with good reason. This is where the magic of Peru is most obvious, where history, geography and legend collide spectacularly. There are innumerable ruins dotted throughout the mountain landscape, many of which can only be visited on a multi-day trek, known around the world as the Inca Trail. 

The destination of such a hike is far more accessible these days, with buses and trains now traversing the valley to reach the jewel of Peru and the Sacred Valley – Machu Picchu. For about a hundred years during the 15th and 16th centuries, the Lost City of the Incas, as it later became known, was a fortified citadel, a royal mountain retreat away from the busy city of Cusco. The ruins now have over a million visitors each year. 

Machu Picchu and the small, carless town of Aguas Calientes, nestled at its feet, are reachable only on foot or by a single railway line, considered to be one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world. Getting there is as much an experience as the ruins themselves. I could feel my excitement building as the afternoon light faded into darkness and the train chugged along the valley floor, following the twists and turns of the river. My plan was to stay overnight in the town and take the first bus up the mountain in the morning to watch the sun rise over the ruins. 

Of course, that plan was somewhat scuppered by the blanket of thick fog that settled over Machu Picchu the following day, leaving me sitting alone in a haze of white on a terrace of stone steps, eyes darting between every break in the clouds, latching on to every faint outline that appeared. It took two hours of patient waiting in the wet mist, but finally Machu Picchu materialised. By the time I walked down into the citadel itself, the sun was shining, illuminating the rows of houses, temples and the jagged peaks around me.

The train runs between Aguas Calientes and Ollantaytambo, which has its own set of impressive Incan ruins that shouldn’t be overlooked in the rush to get to Machu Picchu. The town was the temporary capital of Manco Inca, leader of the Incan resistance during the Spanish Conquest of Peru in the sixteenth century. Many of the houses in Ollantaytambo date from this time, and are some of the oldest continuously occupied buildings in South America. 

Visiting Machu Picchu will always be a highlight of any trip to Peru and the Sacred Valley, but there was one place that was a surprise treat for me. Located about forty minutes drive from Cusco, Pisac is known nowadays for two things: its large market selling products by the local Quechua people (as well as the typical mass-produced souvenirs, of course), and the impressive Incan complex along the narrow mountain ridge high above the town. Typically, visitors drive or take a taxi to and from the ruins, but doing this means missing out on an incredible experience. I took a taxi up, practising my meagre Spanish with the friendly driver, but hiked back down along the ridge. This was where all the fun was. 

The main section of the complex sits on the highest point, a maze of narrow steps and paths between levels of tiny, roofless houses overlooking a huge semi-circular terrace that takes up the entire slope of the mountain. Once I began the descent from the ridge, I found myself entirely alone, passing only a handful of other hikers and two smiling Quechuan women over the next three hours. Each set of ruins I came to was unique – tall, thin houses clinging to a sheer mountainside, a flat temple perched on its own peak, flawlessly-carved squares of stone resting amongst stubby grass, a row of houses set in a perfect semi-circle on the edge of a terrace, a guard tower above a steep drop. The importance of the kilometre-long complex was recognised in 1983 when Pisac National Archaeological Park was established to protect the remains. Narrow paths weave along the mountain slopes and peaks offering multiple paths back to Pisac. By the time I reached the town once more, my feet were aching and my knees weak from the steep descent. But having had such a piece of history almost entirely to myself made every tiring step worth it. 

Aside from Machu Picchu, you’ll need at least one day to explore Cusco itself, which is the best place to base yourself when exploring the Sacred Valley area. Easily one of the prettiest cities in Peru, its narrow cobbled streets are just perfect for wandering and getting lost in. The San Blas neighbourhood is known for its hipster cafes, the Sacsayhuamán ruins above the city are well worth visiting and have amazing views, the Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin is very impressive, and Plaza de Armas, the city’s main square, remains popular with locals and visitors alike. Though many of the sights within the Cusco and Sacred Valley area can be visited as independent day trips, there are plenty of tour agencies vying for business for those who prefer to take the hassle out of their travel. Restaurants and hotels suitable for every budget also abound in Cusco.

It would be easy for the rest of the Sacred Valley to be overshadowed by the grandeur and fame of Machu Picchu, but to miss out on sights like the Moray ruins, the Maras salt mines or the Pisac remains would be a shame. To make the most of a visit to the Sacred Valley, you need at least a week – that’s not including the extra three to five days you’ll need if you want to add the Inca Trail or the Salkantay trek to your trip. It’s also recommended to add an extra day or two just to adjust to the mountain atmosphere. Altitude sickness plagues many a visitor to the Andes, so factoring in a few easy days at the beginning of your trip is important to ensure you don’t miss out on any of the incredible sights this place has to offer.

• ‘The Sacred Valley’ is published in Anthology Volume 18. Read more features from this volume or buy it now.
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