Words Edel Cassidy
Known globally as the city of international law and diplomacy – home to the International Court of Justice, the Peace Palace and Europol – The Hague (Den Haag) can be overlooked as a tourist destination. Yet, beyond its political prestige, The Hague is a sophisticated and diverse city, boasting stunning architecture, world-class museums, a royal touch and even a seaside escape.
Founded in the 13th century as a hunting residence for Dutch nobles, it soon grew into a thriving settlement. By the 15th century, the counts had made The Hague their official residence, solidifying its political importance.
During the Dutch Golden Age, the Netherlands flourished as a global trading empire. The Hague became renowned for its wealth, culture and influence, attracting diplomats, artists and aristocrats.
In 1830, Amsterdam was declared the capital, but The Hague retained its role as the seat of government. The famed Hague Conventions of 1899 and 1907, where world leaders gathered to shape the future of international law, cemented the city’s reputation as a beacon of diplomacy.
The 20th century was a time of turmoil and triumph for The Hague. Despite the devastation of two World Wars, the city rebuilt itself and emerged as a key global economic hub, now home to many international organisations. It also thrives as an academic centre, attracting students with its renowned educational institutions.
Yet for all its gravitas, The Hague remains surprisingly intimate – a city where history lives not just in grand institutions, but in cobbled lanes, royal gardens and the ever-present whisper of the North Sea breeze. From a noble hunting ground to the world’s ‘City of Peace and Justice’, its journey is as remarkable as the treasures it holds.
Top highlights – where to go and what to see:
Scheveningen beach
It was late afternoon when I checked into my comfortable and conveniently central hotel, voco The Hague by IHG. Blessed with beautiful weather, once settled in, I headed straight to Scheveningen beach, just twenty minutes away, to have dinner at one of the beachfront restaurants and watch the sun set.
As the sun dipped towards the sea, the shoreline transformed into a golden-hour paradise. Restaurants along the lively promenade lit up, serving fresh seafood and chilled Dutch beer on breezy terraces. It was the perfect finish to my first day in The Hague.
The Binnenhof and Ridderzaal
My first stop the following morning was The Binnenhof, the political centre of the Netherlands, a historic complex featuring Gothic and Renaissance styles. It has served as the seat of the Dutch government since the 13th century. The Ridderzaal (Knights’ Hall), its centrepiece, is known for its iconic Gothic architecture and magnificent stained glass windows. This is where the Dutch monarch delivers the annual king’s speech.
Mauritshuis museum
Very close to the Binnenhof, the Mauritshuis, a 17th-century palace-turned-museum, houses many Dutch Golden Age masterpieces, including Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring and The Goldfinch by Fabritius. The Mauritshuis and Rembrandt are inextricably linked, with eleven works by the famous artist in situ. They include The Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Nicolaes Tulp, Homer and a Self-Portrait, painted in the year of his death. There are also notable works by Rubens and Steen.
Noordeinde Palace
One of the Dutch royal family’s official residences, Noordeinde Palace is a striking 17th-century landmark in The Hague’s historic centre. While the palace itself is closed to the public, visitors can admire its imposing façade and explore the vibrant surrounding area, filled with upscale boutiques and cafés.
For a change of pace, I stopped by Bookstor, a century-old bookshop and café near the palace. It offers a well-curated selection of books, along with great coffee, homemade lemonade and fresh pastries.
The Kunstmuseum
Just outside the city centre, close to Scheveningen beach, the Kunstmuseum features a wide-ranging collection that includes modern art, Dutch delftware, fashion, decorative arts and historical musical instruments.
Among its treasures is Piet Mondrian’s Victory Boogie Woogie, his final, unfinished piece. With its bold grid of coloured squares, the painting captures his signature style. The museum also holds other key Mondrian works and major pieces from the De Stijl movement, which he helped pioneer.
Grote Markt
At the heart of The Hague, this cobblestone square buzzes with energy, day and night. Once a historic market, it’s now lined with lively bars, pubs and international restaurants, all within steps of each other, making bar hopping a natural and popular way to spend an evening.
The Hague surprised me – its blend of history, culture and coastal ease made me want to stay longer. I’ll certainly be back.
Where to stay: voco The Hague
Perfectly positioned in The Hague’s Royal Quarter, this hotel offers easy access to top sights. The Mauritshuis and Binnenhof are just a short walk away, while Scheveningen beach is a quick tram ride. voco The Hague, an IHG hotel, delivers both convenience and comfort. A converted 1920s bank, the hotel retains its grand façade while offering contemporary interiors like the impressive atrium, where a 143-metre-long 3D butterfly installation leads to a tranquil garden.
The generous breakfast features Dutch and international options, while Ultramarijn, the on-site gastropub, serves inventive drinks and dishes inspired by Dutch maritime history. For evening intrigue, descend the spiral staircase to the original bank vault, now a distinctive cocktail space.
Service strikes the right balance: attentive but unfussy, matching the hotel’s boutique vibe. Whether visiting for business or leisure, voco’s polished yet relaxed atmosphere, paired with its prime location, makes it a standout option.
- ‘A Weekend in The Hague: A city of surprising contrasts’ is published in Anthology Volume 24. Read more features from this volume or buy it now.
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