Words Lara Hayes
A culture-filled district in the Auvergne-Rhóne-Alpes region of France, the Ardèche takes its name from the crystal clear river that runs through it and stretches 125 kilometres along the south-central section of the country. I have been lucky to have visited this area several times. During each visit, I am astonished by the diverse culture and history, the picturesque scenery, the flavoursome and simple food, and the cordial locals who are so very welcoming.
On my first visit, I was immediately captivated by the richness of the area. As we drove on the winding roads through the terrifyingly high mountains, I was completely transfixed by the wild and weather-beaten but magnificent area that surrounded me. Each bend uncovered one astounding view after another as we looked down on the meandering river cutting its way through the spectacular deep gorges.
Throughout the extensive network of small country roads there are lots of quaint little villages where you can break the journey to stop at a traditional café for a coffee and freshly baked pastry. This also gives an opportunity to mix with the friendly village residents and soak in the laid-back atmosphere that seems to permeate everyday life. Sitting outside any of these patisseries, it is fascinating to people-watch and observe as they go by, so nonchalant and composed as they get on with their everyday lives, appearing neither stressed or rushed – it’s as if time has slowed down. I found it impossible not to become completely immersed in the atmosphere and live the way the locals did. This way of life became inspirational.
Many of these picturesque old villages possess a medieval aura, each steeped in history and character. One such village, Alba-la-Romaine, has become my favourite among the Ardèche villages and it has served as my home for many of my visits.
Although the village as it appears today would seem to have its origins in the 13th century, it was actually an important town during Ancient Roman times and served as the capital for the Helvian people, a Celtic-speaking polity of Romanised Gauls.
A visit to the museum, MuséAl, just outside the village, gives a fascinating insight to the complexity of this ancient Roman settlement. The original Roman town has been excavated, revealing the ruins of several buildings. The shops, temples and even an amphitheatre take us to the heart of what everyday life was like for the inhabitants, 2,000 years ago under Roman domination, in this busy commercial city.
Caverne du Pont-d’Arc
This cave is a replica of the original Chauvet Cave (now a UNESCO world heritage site which was discovered in 1994 and is one of the world’s most famous prehistoric rock art sites, having some of the best-preserved figurative cave paintings depicting animals such as horses, cattle and mammoths.) Caverne du Pont-d’Arc is located in one of the typical limestone cliffs. The amazing artwork that covers the walls is typical of the people who lived in the region over 40,000 years ago. The original artists experimented with perspective and animation. While absorbing the intensity of this extraordinary place it is easy to forget that this is actually a replica of the original cave. A strong sense of curiosity about these prehistoric artists, about whom we know very little, remained with me long after my visit.
Grotte de la Madeleine
Yet another of the many prehistoric caves that are found scattered around the region, the Madeleine Cave is an experience that should definitely be on your must-visit list. Located in the heart of the Ardèche canyon, it is an experience like no other. As you venture deeper and deeper into the cave it features impressive stalagmites, stalactites, rock formations and natural baths formed by calcium carbonate. There is an amazing music and lights show in one of the massive chambers which is completely out of this world. The nearby Belvédère de la Madeleine viewpoint offers superb panoramic views of the Ardèche gorges!
Kayaking at Pont d’Arc
I was lucky enough to get to do this on my first visit to the Ardèche and it is still one of the most memorable highlights of my time spent there. Pont d’Arc is a 60 metre high natural stone arch over the Ardèche River and is situated 5 kilometres from the town of Vallon-Pont-d’Arc. It was a truly indescribable experience to paddle under the arch of this famous landmark and marvel at the rock formations that towered over me while winding my way through the impressive gorges.
Food and Wine
For me, the Ardèche is a place that I can submerse myself in the French culture and way of life, but it is also an ideal destination for outdoor sports, cycling, hiking and horse riding. Another delight to be enjoyed is the exceptional richness of the great wines and gastronomic delights such as cheeses, chestnuts, honey, blueberries and olives.
The traditional dishes generally have a rustic feel that reflects the region’s self-sufficiency. ‘La bombine’ is a hearty local dish and is made up of potatoes cut into small cubes, carrots, onions, black olives and pieces of bacon or lamb flavoured with bay leaves or thyme and simmered in a casserole dish. The Ardèche is also a place where you can get good ‘charcuterie’ sausages, pâté, ham and creamy goat’s cheeses. All of these delicious flavours will be enhanced by pairing with a good wine. The Ardèche has a long history of wine production and an abundance of vineyards to visit that produce some of the very finest of French wines.
- ‘The Ardèche’ is published in Anthology Volume 14. Read more features from this volume or buy it now.
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