Words Edel Cassidy
My Grand Train Tour of Switzerland was an exciting way to survey this country’s most stunning landscapes by rail, bus and boat. From breathtaking mountain passes to picturesque lakes and magnificent castles, this was an unforgettable and epic exploration. For those seeking outdoor adventure, relaxation, art and culture or unrivalled vistas, let me take you on a journey that provides the perfect opportunity to discover the heart of this beautiful nation.
Switzerland’s public transport system is renowned for its efficiency and integration, combining trains, buses and boats into a single, co-ordinated network. The Swiss Travel System has around 400 operators, with a significant number run by private or semi-private companies, especially in regional areas. Despite the mix of owners, the integration of public and private services is smooth, with the Swiss government setting standards for schedules, co-ordination and pricing to ensure consistency across the network.
Before embarking on a train tour of Switzerland, it’s essential to book the Swiss Travel Pass. This provides unlimited travel by rail, bus and boat, including access to premium panoramic trains. It covers public transport in over 90 towns and cities and offers free admission to more than 500 museums, with selected mountain excursions included. With my travel pass in hand and plans in place, I set off, anticipating a journey of a lifetime.
Montreux
On arrival at Zurich airport, I hopped on the train to Montreux, where I spent the night before my official Grand Train Tour began. The following morning, with time to spare before my scheduled departure in the early afternoon, I took in some of the local attractions.
Determined to make the most of my Swiss Travel Pass, I grabbed a ten-minute bus ride to Chillon Castle. Dating back to the 12th century, this castle controlled the only land route between France and Italy during medieval times, allowing the Counts of Savoy to collect tolls and amass great wealth. It was not only a military stronghold but also a key economic hub, serving as a fortress, residence and prison, famously inspiring Lord Byron’s The Prisoner of Chillon. It remained under the control of the Counts of Savoy from the 12th to the 16th century until it was conquered by the people of Bern and later by the inhabitants of Vaud.
A big fan of the band Queen, I was thrilled to return to Montreux in plenty of time to take in the Freddie Mercury Tour. This is a fantastic way to explore the city’s rich musical heritage and the special bond Mercury shared with it. Interactive audio guides, along with rare photos and videos, bring the Montreux of the 1980s to life. The tour includes a visit to where Mountain Studios was located, in which Queen recorded many of their greatest albums, and concludes at the famous Freddie Mercury statue by the lakeside.
Montreux to Spiez
After a culturally-rich morning, it was time to board the GoldenPass Express, a train that connects Montreux and Spiez. The journey, which took nearly three hours, offered awe-inspiring views of some of Switzerland’s most incredible landscapes. Passengers can enjoy an onboard catering service for an extra dose of luxury. My stop in Spiez was planned so that I could stay overnight and take a cruise on Lake Thun the following morning, which would then bring me to Interlaken to catch the Luzern–Interlaken Express.
Spiez to Lucerne
As I strolled the fifteen-minute walk to the ferry terminal in Spiez, I examined the beauty of this fairytale-like Swiss town. Here you’ll find the historic 10th-century Spiez Church, a Romanesque gem adjacent to Spiez Castle, a well-preserved medieval fortress overlooking the lake. Wine lovers can enjoy tastings at Alpine Weinkultur, which is known for producing excellent Swiss vintages.
By then, it was time to sit back and relax on a nostalgic steamboat as it glided across Lake Thun, offering glimpses of quaint villages, castles and majestic mountains. After a quick change in Interlaken, I boarded the Luzern–Interlaken Express, which took me through the heart of Switzerland, showcasing spectacular alpine scenery complemented by crystal-clear lakes and waterfalls. I enjoyed lunch on board and arrived in Lucerne by early afternoon in time to join a walking tour of the city.
Lucerne
Spanning the Reuss River, the covered Chapel Bridge is a historic 14th-century wooden footbridge known for its iconic tower and is the centrepiece of the cityscape. Inside, a series of 17th-century triangular paintings depict scenes from Swiss history and Lucerne’s past.
The Jesuit Church, Switzerland’s first Baroque church, features two distinctive onion-domed towers. The interior is embellished with white and coral ornamentation and an imposing altar. The late-17th-century organ and intricate stucco ceiling are key attractions within this ornate space.
Lucerne is the music capital of Switzerland, and the Lucerne Festival features some of the world’s most celebrated orchestras, legendary conductors and virtuoso soloists. It takes place at the KKL Culture and Congress Centre, a venue recognised for its outstanding acoustics.
The renowned composer Richard Wagner lived in Lucerne for six years, residing in a villa by Lake Lucerne, which is now the Richard Wagner Museum. The collection includes Wagner’s Erard grand piano, as well as photographs, paintings, scores and letters that illustrate the story of the composer’s life and work.
Lucerne to Locarno
The Gotthard Panorama Express is a scenic boat and train journey connecting Lucerne to Locarno, crossing the Swiss Alps through the Gotthard Tunnel. The trip begins with a boat ride from Lucerne to Locarno, sailing past the iconic peaks and notable sites like the Tell Chapel that commemorates the folk hero William Tell.
At Bellinzona, I boarded a panoramic train that climbs the Reuss Valley via the historic Gotthard railway. The train’s spiral loops provide stunning views before entering the Gotthard Tunnel and finally descending to Locarno in the Italian-speaking region of Switzerland.
Locarno
In contrast with the alpine landscapes of central and northern Switzerland, there is a distinctly Mediterranean feel here. The city is known for its warm climate, palm trees and the lakeside charm of Lake Maggiore.
After spending the night here, I decided to make an early start as my train to my final destination, Sion, was not until the early afternoon. A stroll around the town brought me to the Piazza Grande, a vibrant square that hosts screenings for up to 8,000 spectators during the annual Locarno Film Festival. The Visconti Castle is an impressive medieval fortress built in the 12th century which now houses a museum.
I also visited Isola di San Pancrazio, on the Swiss part of Lake Maggiore, accessible by boat from Locarno. In 1885, the Anglo-Irish aristocrat Richard Fleming and his wife Antoinette purchased the island and created a botanical garden. In 1926, Max Emden, a German businessman took ownership and built a palazzo-style villa, now a hotel. He also preserved the gardens which are wonderfully calm and peaceful and contain a rich and diverse assortment of exotic plants. Today, it is open to the public.
Locarno to Sion
It was now time for my final leg of the Grand Train Tour. The route winds through the Swiss Alps, with the train crossing dramatic viaducts and bridges, overlooking deep valleys, rushing rivers and rugged mountain terrain. Travelling near the Italian border, we crossed it briefly to change trains in Domodossola before continuing onward to Sion.
Sion
This is an important wine-growing region, and I was fortunate to arrive on schedule for a wine tasting at Les Celliers de Sion. As I approached, I admired the spectacular terraced vineyards covering the hillsides.
The following morning, before returning to catch my flight in Zurich, I visited the Valère Basilica, perched at the top of a hill overlooking the town. The walk up is strenuous, with a steep incline, but the views are well worth the effort. Inside the church, there’s a 600-year-old pipe organ, the oldest functioning instrument of its kind in the world.
Alas, all good things must come to an end, but I’m left with countless recollections of an unforgettable adventure. Each destination brought its own unique charm, and the journey was filled with moments that will stay with me for a lifetime. Switzerland’s beauty, seen from its iconic trains, will remain etched in my memory forever.
- ‘Switzerland’s Grand Train Tour: A journey of scenic wonders’ is published in Anthology Volume 22. Read more features from this volume or buy it now.
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