Words Edel Cassidy
Undoubtedly one of the most beautiful cities I have visited, Lucerne is framed by a glittering lake and dramatic Alpine peaks. Its old town, with painted façades and mediaeval bridges, exudes charm and character at every turn. Yet Lucerne’s magic extends beyond its immediate beauty; the surrounding region is central to Swiss identity, with Lake Lucerne at its heart. Often described as the cradle of the Swiss Confederation, Lake Lucerne has shores dotted with landmarks steeped in the stories of William Tell and the signing of the Rütli Oath, the foundational pact of modern Switzerland. Exploring this landscape is to journey through the very origins of a nation, where every curve of the lake reveals spectacular scenery intertwined with the echoes of both myth and history.
According to tradition, it was on a secluded meadow on the western shore of Lake Lucerne – the Rütli – that the founding pact was sealed in 1291. Here, representatives of the three forest cantons of Uri, Schwyz and Unterwalden met in secret to swear an oath of mutual defence against Habsburg rule. This small alliance became a nucleus, steadily expanding over the centuries as other communities were drawn to the promise of mutual protection, autonomy and shared prosperity. Today, the Rütli Oath is revered as Switzerland’s founding act, and the meadow itself is a powerful national symbol.
My journey began with a few days in Brunnen, a town beautifully set on the northern shore of the lake beneath the slopes of Axen Mountain. The Hotel Waldstätterhof made an ideal base with its sweeping lake views, private bathing area and a rooftop spa – luxuries that felt especially welcome after long days exploring the region’s history. From here, I was within easy reach of several significant historical sites.
Just a ten-minute bus ride from Brunnen, this was my first stop in exploring Switzerland’s early history. The museum safeguards the 1291 Federal Charter, alongside a compelling collection of mediaeval manuscripts, maps and artefacts that trace the Confederation’s expansion and the unique development of Swiss democracy.
Canoe tour on Lake Lucerne
From Brunnen, a canoe trip across the still waters of Lake Lucerne leads to Schiller Rock, a sheer granite pillar dedicated in 1859 to the German author Friedrich Schiller. His play, William Tell dramatises the legend of the Swiss marksman who was ordered by the tyrannical Austrian governor, Albrecht Gessler to shoot an apple from his son’s head. Tell’s successful shot, and his subsequent assassination of Gessler, became an enduring symbol of resistance against oppression. Though his story is legend rather than fact, Tell remains a powerful emblem of Swiss independence and national identity.
Rütli Meadow.
Treib and Seelisberg
A ten-minute boat tour across the lake brought me to the foot of the Treib–Seelisberg funicular, marked by the picturesque Wirtshaus zur Treib, a tavern of historical importance where the Old Swiss Confederacy once met.
The funicular carries visitors from the lakeshore up to Seelisberg. Here, the small and beautiful Maria Sonnenberg Chapel is a popular place of pilgrimage, while the former Grand Hotel Sonnenberg, once a fashionable spa resort, later served as the international headquarters of the Transcendental Meditation movement.
From this vantage point, panoramic views extend over Lake Lucerne and the surrounding mountains. Seelisberg also marks the starting point of the Swiss Path, a scenic trail created for Switzerland’s 700th anniversary, which offers direct hiking routes down to the Rütli Meadow.
The Swiss army knife experience
After my time immersed in the history of the region, I visited the Victorinox brand store in Brunnen, where I discovered another connection to Swiss heritage. With assistance, I assembled my own Swiss army knife – selecting the components, fitting them together and engraving it as a keepsake. More than a souvenir, it felt like a personal link to Switzerland’s tradition of precision and craftsmanship, and a fitting reminder of my travels.
Legends of Lake Lucerne
For my final day, I returned to Lucerne on an early morning train for the Legends of Lake Lucerne cruise aboard the historic steamboat, Gallia. Having explored the region’s history on land, this voyage offered a chance to see it all come together from a different perspective.
As the Gallia’s paddlewheels churned, we were served exquisite local cuisine and wine, gliding past the very landmarks I had visited days before. Seeing them from this new vantage point – from the Rütli Meadow to Tell’s Chapel and Schiller Rock – felt like watching the final pieces of a story fall into place. An actor portraying Casimir Friedrich Knörr, the 19th-century pioneer of steam navigation on the lake, provided a narrative thread, his vision echoing my own journey of discovery.
As we approached the city, Lucerne’s skyline emerged – the church spires rising above the Old Town and the grand façades of lakeside hotels. It was a final, panoramic view that perfectly framed my trip: a beautiful blend of history, legend and landscape, now seen with a deeper, more personal understanding.
Travel tips
The Swiss Travel Pass offers unlimited journeys on trains, buses and boats, including premium panoramic routes and public transport in over 90 cities. The pass also grants free entry to over 500 museums and includes select mountain excursions.
Swiss International Air Lines (SWISS) operates from its main hubs in Zurich and Geneva with a network that connects to major capital cities in Europe. Their worldwide reach extends across the Atlantic to North and South America, and eastward to key destinations throughout Asia, Africa and the Middle East.
- ‘A Voyage Through Swiss History: Legends, lakes and the birth of a nation’ is published in Anthology Volume 24. Read more features from this volume or buy it now.
- Browse more in travel.
- If you were inspired by this feature, we’d love it if you would share it!