Words and photos Patrick Jordan
On a bright summer’s morning, a lone piper bids farewells to the crowd with a familiar Scottish tune in front of a large ship. Luggage is hauled onto the deck and is bundled away to the cabins. Relatives of those departing wave from the quayside and excited passengers wave back, ready for a journey into the unknown.
In case you’re wondering, I’m not referring to 19th century Scotland and poverty-stricken families departing for America, never to see their relatives again. The place I’m talking about does have Scottish roots and was modeled on the historical city of Edinburgh, but is about as far from the Scottish Highlands as you could possibly get. The ship is departing from the town of Dunedin on New Zealand’s South East coast with its Russian crew and a local pilot.
Welcome aboard the Spirit of Enderby. A former Russian Government research vessel, it is fully ice strengthened and boasts a bar, library, lecture theatre and even a sauna. As the ship is piloted out of the majestic Dunedin Harbour, the fifty passengers enjoy the view from the deck and get to know each other, commenting on birds while binoculars and cameras point eagerly towards the skies. Passengers come from all over the world with people representing Australia, Europe, USA and of course New Zealand.
Our expedition leader for the next two weeks, Rodney Russ, reports over the tannoy that a pod of dolphins are breaching the water close to the ship and which causes a scurry of excitement amongst the passengers. After a few hours, the Spirit of Enderby, now finally in open seas turns towards the south and we begin our voyage to the Islands of the Subantarctic, some of the world’s wildest places. We are on an expedition to visit these distant islands, see the abundant wildlife and to be captivated by tales of centuries-old shipwrecks and other island lore.
A few hours later, as we sit down to dinner, we pass Stanley Island, the last gasp of civilization south of New Zealand. We have now hit the ’Roaring Forties’, so-called because of the latitude and it’s notorious weather conditions. In order to get to ‘far-flung’ places you have to cross ‘far-flung’ seas, which results in some of the passengers succumbing to seasickness, keeping the ship’s doctor busy for day or so until we all find our sea legs.
First stop are the Snares Islands, about 200 km South of New Zealand. Wonderfully dramatic, these fog-shrouded islands are home to unique species such as the Snares Penguin and Snares Snipe. Designated as a World Heritage Sight by Unesco, the Island was discovered by Captain George Vancouver aboard the HMS Discovery in 1791. We take a tour on the five Zodiac boats which the vessel carries and which are the only way to gain access to all of these islands. Invigorated and refreshed after our early morning excursion, we clamber back aboard the mother ship where we are greeted with a hot lunch from the ship’s talented two young chefs.
Doing anything on board ship while it’s rolling and turning is difficult so how these two are able to cook up restaurant-quality food three times a day is beyond me. There is a splendid array of colourful fresh food at breakfast, a comforting and warming lunch and a three-course dinner that includes venison, steak and a variety of seafood. Wine is, as always, optional.
Days at sea are peaceful, and an added bonus to the trip is that the Expedition Staff deliver on board lectures most afternoons on topics ranging from marine and mammal life to the history of human interaction with the islands. Some of the staff and guides use their training as biologists to provide insights into current research on the many fascinating birdlife and animals we are able to see. The packed audience attests to the interest of both passengers and crew. There is also some free time to read books in the library, nap on your bunk bed or survey the swooping birds from the bridge.
Next stop on the list is the Auckland Islands, an archipelago that lies 465kms to the south of the mainland. Evidence exists that Polynesian travellers first discovered the island in the 13th century. Having an interest in history I am fascinated to hear the story of The Grafton, which was a schooner that left Sydney in the 1860’s to investigate mining and sealing opportunities on the islands. On the 1st January 1864, the ship sank after a storm and the men aboard became castaways on the island. There was another shipwrecked crew on the other side of the island and, strangely, both groups were unaware of each other’s presence. After twelve months had passed on the island, three men undertook a daring mission to sail to Stewart Island on one of the ship’s dinghies. A mission that was successful despite five days of bad weather. In the end the surviving members of both groups were rescued.
Our Auckland Islands experience thankfully doesn’t end the same way, but we do have the opportunity to take a long hike around the perimeter of Enderby Island, which lies at the top of the archipelago. Greeted by some curious sea lions, we start our walk onto the remote island, which is comprised of eroding volcanic remains from eruptions that occurred 15 million years ago. Sitting by the coast eating our lunch, our eyes fixated on the birds endemic to the untouched island, we feel a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of modern day life.
Back on board the boat, every evening, the two experts on bird and marine life encourage us tick off a list of the species we had seen that day. These range from the awe-inspiring Albatross, that can fly for 12 hours without flapping its wings, to the mighty Orca whale which we see breaching the water off the coast of one of the islands.
It is also a great time to chat, beer in hand, to fellow passengers and to swap stories on things seen and heard and relax before dinner, a meal guaranteed to send us all comfortably to sleep in our cabins.
Our Auckland Islands experience ends with a hike up to a viewpoint above Carnley Harbour. We visit the remains of lookout huts built in World War Two by the New Zealand government on the lookout for German war ships. After lunch on the boat, the anchor is raised and we head back out to sea, en-route to our next island destination.
Six o’clock in the morning and the tannoy springs to life. It’s the soothing tones of the hotel manager who is working on the ship with her tour guide boyfriend. Today, she informs us, is the day we visit Macquarie Island and for many it will be the highlight of the trip. Part of Australian territory, the island is about half-way between New Zealand and Antarctica.
The first half of the day is spent meeting the Australian Antarctic Division. These hardy souls man the research station all year round and it was their role to introduce us to the amazing wildlife on the island. Before coffee and scones in their Mess Hall, we are lucky enough to see a weather balloon being launched by the meteorology unit. This plays a major role in predicting the weather for Australia, New Zealand and beyond.
Next we are brought to Lusitania Bay where things become really interesting. There are penguins everywhere. Rodney tells us that in one colony alone there are 30,000 of them. Also there are elephant seals as far as the eye can see. To my amazement, I encounter young seals, called weaners, cuddling up to people, melting hearts and prompting the taking of many photographs. It is hard to describe how moving it is to be on an island beach surrounded by so many birds and sea mammals. So many things flash through my head. I imagine it’s like being back in the time of dinosaurs. We are on their turf and, outnumbered for once, we humans aren’t the important ones here and at this moment.
Our last stop is to be Campbell Island, which reputedly has thirty days of sunshine a year. We are lucky enough to be on the island for one of those days. In Camp Cove we visit a Sitka Spruce tree, dubbed by the Guinness Book of Records as the loneliest tree in the world. Located 700 km south of New Zealand, the island is considered the Albatross capital of the world with no less than six species found there. Campbell Island is rich in historical exploration, mystery and even ghost stories. We eagerly lace up our hiking boots to climb on the boardwalk up to Mount Honey where we spend hours looking at the mating rituals of the nesting birds. It is a fitting finale to our visit to the Subantarctic Islands.
Memory cards full, and brains awash with memories, we board the ship for the last time and head for home. In the two weeks since we left Dunedin, friendships have formed. The sound of laughter echoes through the boat as she makes her way through the dark night and the endless ocean. For many this is a trip of a lifetime and the next day, when we wake in the harbour of Invercargill it feels like we have lived a dream. Sadly, we depart and go our separate ways, leaving the rough seas and remote places behind, now etched in our memories for years to come.
- ‘Sub-Antarctic Adventure’ is published in Anthology Volume 01. Read more features from this volume or buy it now.
- Browse more features in travel.
- If you enjoyed this feature, we’d love it if you would share it!