words and photos Ros Woodham
Holidaying in the Swiss mountains often brings to mind winter ski adventures or idyllic summer breaks, but the in-between seasons hold a unique magic of their own. The Alpine region of Engadin is especially appealing during these quieter periods. From my own experience, it’s an ideal destination for anyone considering an autumnal getaway.
Beyond the bustle of Zurich Airport, a pleasant three-hour train journey was eased by the sensory feast. Once on the move, the grey overtones of the city soon gave way to clear skies and the seasonal hues of the lower slopes. After two connections, the final and most scenic part of the journey revealed a distinctly Alpine landscape as the train climbed through sun-soaked valleys adorned with picturesque villages and glistening mountain lakes. This part of the Rhaetian Railway network boasts UNESCO World Heritage status as an outstanding example of railway engineering. While the surrounding scenery is undeniably spectacular, it is the railway itself – including its ingenious bridges, tunnels and viaducts – that has earned this prestigious recognition.
On arrival at Samedan station, a private transfer awaited me for the short drive to the town of Pontresina and the five-star Grand Hotel Kronenhof. The hotel’s Neo-Baroque architecture is impressive at first sight and even more so when stepping from the lobby into the elegant lounge area, where an enormous bay window perfectly frames panoramic views across the Roseg Valley.
The recently redesigned Bel Étage exudes luxury and warmth, masterfully weaving contemporary elements into its historical foundation. Built on a mountainside, all the rooms boast splendid mountain views, and my suite – two floors down from reception – featured French doors opening onto a verdant lawn overlooking the river. It was the perfect place to unwind before joining my group for a five-star dining experience in the hotel’s ornately decorated Grand Restaurant.
After a glorious night’s rest, I arose refreshed on my first morning here, ready for a delicious buffet breakfast followed by a stroll into the village. A mixture of languages can be heard in the establishments along Pontresina’s charming main street. Romansh is the primary language spoken here in the Engadin Valley, but the locals also handle French, Swiss-German and Italian with ease.
I joined my group heading to the Diavolezza mountain for an al-fresco lunch on the peaks overlooking glacial scenery. A gondola ride provided a full spectrum of changing landscapes and as green pastures turned to wintry blankets of white, we watched a ski team training on the early snow of the season. The crisp mountain air belied the sun’s intensity at high altitude, so I was glad I came prepared with my newly acquired sunscreen.
Back at the hotel, I indulged in a vigorous signature massage in the wellness area and spent a blissful afternoon in the hotel’s spa, where sumptuous facilities, including a large pool, thermal Jacuzzis and a variety of steam and sauna rooms are framed by the unbeatable mountain panorama through a curved glass wall. The day concluded with dinner at the game-focused Gourmet Restaurant Kronenstübli, where expertly prepared dishes showcased the rich flavours of the region.
Waking early the next morning, I was hopeful of catching sight of an ibex (a wild goat), along the famous Ibex Promenade on the outskirts of town. The short walk was thoroughly enjoyable, but sadly, no ibexes were encountered. I was told that the weather was still too warm at this altitude, so the snow
had not yet driven these agile wild goats down from the higher slopes.
The hotel offers a selection of experiences, including group courses such as yoga and cookery and hunting, and is both child- and dog-friendly – the quirky bowling alley can be hired out for a fun family activity. However, the principal reason for visiting Pontresina is undoubtedly nature. It is hard to imagine a more beautiful environment for hiking or cross-country skiing once the snows arrive. Cycling is also extremely popular here – both conventional and electric bikes can be hired and mountain trails cater to all levels, from families to hardened bikers.
Following lunch on the terrace at Le Pavilion, the weekend’s highlight was the 7 km hike from the hotel to St. Moritz. The route led out of town, along wooded trails to Lej da Staz, a hidden lake in the middle of the forest. Its shores had already gathered a small number of nature lovers – some bathing in its icy waters, others relaxing and enjoying the sunset. It was a wonderful escape into nature.
Nearby, St. Moritz sparkles with the glitz and glamour but for those seeking a refined yet peaceful mountain retreat, Pontresina is an exceptional choice. With its blend of elegance, adventure and natural beauty, this Alpine haven leaves a lasting impression, no matter the season.
- ‘Pontresina: A year-round Alpine haven’ is published in Anthology Volume 23. Read more features from this volume or buy it now.
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