Words Ros Woodham
Once seen primarily as a gateway to the rest of the beautiful Mediterranean island of Mallorca, Palma has evolved into a major European destination, thanks to a tourism boom that highlights its historic centre, iconic landmarks and year-round appeal. Sustainable initiatives have balanced development, preserving the city’s charm.
My first visit to Palma, over twenty years ago, was brief and while the city was rich in history it lacked the upscale atmosphere it now offers. On a recent trip, I was pleasantly surprised to see how Palma’s focus on culture, gastronomy and architecture has drawn a wider variety of visitors beyond the sun-and-beach-seekers.
A two-night stay is perfect for a city break, but if you want to absorb some of the famous nearby beach life, consider extending your visit. Here are eight highlights from my weekend:
La Seu
Palma Cathedral (La Seu) is the city’s most famous landmark. At 44 metres, its Gothic nave is the second tallest in Europe. Its construction on the site of a Moorish mosque began in 1229 and took almost 400 years to complete. The interior features the subtle yet impactful work of Antoni Gaudí, who was brought in for the restoration in the early 20th century, blending modernist elements with the cathedral’s Gothic grandeur. While I admire Gaudí’s work, I found the small chapel to the right of the nave even more captivating. It features a ceramic mural designed by Mallorcan artist Miquel Barceló in 2004. His depiction of the miracle of the loaves and fishes has sparked both praise and debate for its bold contrast within the historic setting. La Seu stands as the only Gothic cathedral in Spain to have been built on the waterfront, a testament to both religious and defensive power. Although land reclamation projects have since shifted the coastline, the cathedral still commands the cityscape from many angles.
Ros Woodham
Old town
The labyrinth of medieval streets of Palma’s Old Town reveals Gothic churches, picturesque squares and centuries-old patios. Here you can browse antique bookstores, vintage furniture shops and confectionery boutiques where tradition and modernity blend beautifully. Roman, Moorish and Christian influences are etched into the architecture with highlights like ancient Arab baths and 17th-century mansions, now luxury hotels. Make time to sample an ensaïmada, a traditional Mallorcan pastry, at C’an Joan de s’Aaigo, Palma’s oldest café, dating back to 1700.
Passeig del Born
This elegant, tree-lined promenade is home to stone benches and terraces that invite you to pause and feel the pulse of the city. Once a narrow trench where the Riera River flowed during the Muslim era, it was transformed after a devastating flood in 1403. By 1613, it became a venue for celebrations and medieval tournaments – ‘Born’ referring to knightly combat. Browse the boutiques before detouring into the inter-connecting Avenida Jaime III, Palma’s Golden Mile, a prime spot for sightseeing and shopping.
Sa Llotja
Located beyond the southern end of Passeig del Born, this turreted 15th-century masterpiece, designed by Mallorcan architect Guillem Sagrera, is a great place to stop and people-watch. Neither church nor castle, it was built as a merchant exchange during Palma’s maritime trading heyday and, over the centuries, served as a grain store, gun factory and fine arts gallery. Its Gothic interior comprises a rectangular hall featuring octagonal towers at each corner and six graceful helical columns resembling palm trunks, supporting intricate ribbed vaulting. Today, Sa Llotja serves as a cultural centre hosting temporary exhibitions.
Es Baluard Museu d’Art Modern i Contemporani
Opened in 2004, this contemporary art gallery is housed in the Baluard de Sant Pere, a former 16th-century military fortress that once formed part of Palma’s Renaissance walls. Showcased is a vast collection of 20th- and 21st-century Balearic and Mediterranean art, featuring works by masters such as Cézanne, Picasso, Miró and Magritte, alongside contemporary artists like Kiefer and Barceló. Head to the rooftop terraces for views of the Bay of Palma.
Fundació Pilar i Joan Miró
The Miró Foundation near Cala Major, just outside Palma, offers an intimate glimpse into the world of Joan Miró, where he lived and worked from 1956 until he died in 1983. Founded by Miró and his wife Pilar in 1981, it is a living testament to his creative journey. It houses over 7,000 works, including paintings, drawings and sculptures, many created in the very studios you can examine. Allow time to wander through the beautiful gardens, which feature sculptures and a museum designed by architect Rafael Moneo.
Bellver Castle
A taxi ride out of town, perched on a hill west of Palma, this 14th-century circular fortress offers panoramic views of the bay, Tramuntana Mountains and city skyline. This remarkable example of Mallorcan medieval architecture served as a royal residence and military prison for nearly six centuries. Explore the layers of Roman, Arab and Spanish history in the museum, and stroll through the Gothic and Romanesque arches around the circular courtyard. During summer, you might be lucky to catch an open-air concert.
Beach clubs
From laid-back to luxury, there is a beach club to suit everyone in Palma Bay, and it’s the perfect way to round off a busy weekend of sightseeing and cultural stimulation. With a stunning coastal backdrop, each club delivers a beach atmosphere with exclusive bars, restaurants and pools by day and exciting nightlife after dark.
Many of Palma’s principal landmarks are closed on Mondays, even in the summer months. Plan ahead to ensure you don’t miss out.
- ‘Palma de Mallorca: The city break that has it all’ is published in Anthology Volume 22. Read more features from this volume or buy it now.
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