Words and Photos Ros Woodham
Breathtaking views of the famous Alhambra, framed by snow-capped mountain peaks, set the scene for a unique destination, renowned not only for its immense natural beauty but also for its unique and complex history. Granada lies at the foot of the majestic Sierra Nevada Mountains between the rivers Darro and Genil in the Andalusia region of southern Spain.
Since its origins in the 7th century BC, Granada has passed through the hands of Iberians, Romans and Visigoths, evolving from a tiny settlement to the city it is today. Its most glorious era began with the Moorish invasion in AD 711 and the creation of Al-Andalus, Moorish Spain. Under the rule of the Nasrid dynasty, the city experienced more than two centuries of unprecedented cultural and artistic magnificence. It was during this time that the Alhambra was built, a fortress complex that contains the best-preserved medieval Islamic palace in the world and one of Spain’s most iconic landmarks.
Historic neighbourhoods
My weekend in this beautiful city began with a wander into the heart of Albaicín, the oldest Arab district in the city, now a protected UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s made up of a car-free jumble of cobbled streets and squares that clad the north side of the Darro River. The typical townhouses – or cármenes – built in Moorish times, have secluded gardens planted with vines and fruit trees. These alluring and serene spaces are mostly private, but some, such as Carmen de la Victoria, are open to visitors and allow a perfect opportunity to take a relaxed moment away from the hustle and bustle.
Above the city, Sacromonte is one of the mystical districts in Granada. With its mountain views, meadows and rivers, it is a pleasant and ethnically-diverse residential neighbourhood today. Previously, after the expulsion of the Moors, gypsies – or gitanos – settled here in cave houses burrowed into the cliff. To experience these unique dwellings, you can visit the cave museum or go to a traditional tablao, which hosts nightly shows of a particular style of flamenco known as zambra. Walking along the Camino de Sacromonte, I reached the Abbey, which offers spectacular views down the Valparaiso valley and the Darro River to the Alhambra and Albaicín district.
its fountain is an example of its complex water system
La Alhambra
This impressive and alluring complex of palaces, gardens and defences rises from a rocky hill on the banks of the Darro, presenting a heart-stopping ascent that demands respect from the unsuspecting visitor. I allowed three hours to properly experience this remarkable monument, which gets around 7,000 visitors a day. I had been advised to beat the crowds by booking a visit first thing in the morning or go much later in the afternoon.
The Alhambra is one of the world’s most famous monuments of Islamic architecture. It was constructed by many different hands over a long period of time. Originally a fortress, it became the sultan’s residence and court of Granada in the mid-13th century. Then over the next 200 years, it became a citadel with high walls and defensive towers comprising two main areas: the military zone or barracks called the Alcazaba, and the medina which contains the famous Nasrid Palaces and Generalife gardens. In striking contrast to the Islamic design of the other buildings, the Renaissance-style palace of Carlos V was built after the Christian Reconquest in 1492.
Granada Cathedral
On my return to the city centre, I couldn’t resist a peek into Granada’s Cathedral. It’s a wonderful example of the Spanish Renaissance style, with its stunning white and gold interior and impressive stained glass that reflects the historical power and wealth of the Spanish kingdom during the 16th century.
Eating out in Granada
The gastronomy of Granada is a wonderful blend of traditional Spanish cuisine and Middle Eastern flavours. Most bars will serve complimentary tapas with an alcoholic drink; the tapas may be as simple as a sardine, or something more filling such as a slice of tortilla de Sacromonte, a surprisingly delicious Spanish omelette cooked with lamb or calf brains and testicles! Calle Navas – ‘Tapas Street’ – is hugely popular and full of people, atmosphere and street musicians during lunchtimes and evenings.
There are also plenty of excellent restaurants if you prefer a more conventional meal. I highly recommend Arrayanes, an intimate and atmospheric Moroccan restaurant on the edge of the vibrant Alcaicería district. This area is Granada’s bazaar, brimming with silk stalls, spices and other valuable goods. Inside the restaurant I was warmly greeted by Mostafa, a humble yet characterful proprietor whose enthusiasm for people was as flavourful as the dishes he served. He prepared a selection of warm and cold Moroccan starters, a rich and fragrant chicken tagine with lemon and olives, followed by nutty Lebanese treats and sweet mint tea. The entire experience at Arrayanes was wonderful.
Hotel Casa 1800
My hotel, Hotel Casa 1800, turned out to be a real gem, situated in the heart of the Albaicín district. It’s a renovated 16th-century army barracks whose facade has been beautifully preserved and the interior sensitively decorated in a fitting Renaissance-baroque style. At its heart, a grand staircase rises from the tranquil central courtyard to internal balconies that lead to the hotel’s twenty-five rooms. From our room at the top of the building, the views up to the Alhambra were spectacular. I felt perfectly placed to experience the magic of Granada.
Spa Bodyna
Away from the busy shopping quarter, I found the perfect urban oasis at Spa Bodyna at Hotel Hospes Palacio de los Patos, a converted 19th-century town palace combining dramatic classical design with stunning modern architecture. I sought sanctuary beneath the ancient pomegranate tree in the hotel gardens before venturing below street level to the modern spa to enjoy its Turkish bath and sauna and a relaxing massage.
Flamenco at La Casa Ana
A trip to Granada wouldn’t be complete without experiencing the flamenco. This empathetic and deep art form combines singing, dancing and guitar playing in the traditional style of the Andalusian gitanos. La Casa Ana is a dedicated, intimate theatre-style space where I was told I would be guaranteed the best flamenco in Granada – and I was not disappointed.
Words can’t describe the feelings stirred by the performance; the artists emanated such passion throughout that I felt as if I had developed a unique connection with them – known as duende, or spirit – which left me with a lasting memory of this special experience. This was the perfect end to a most enchanting weekend.
- ‘Granada’ is published in Anthology Volume 19. Read more features from this volume or buy it now.
- Browse more features in travel.
- If you enjoyed this feature, we’d love it if you would share it!