One of the great joys of travelling in Europe is the ability to explore several destinations in even the shortest time span. Copenhagen and Malmö might be in two different countries, but they’re only 45 km apart and can easily be visited over a weekend.
COPENHAGEN
Copenhagen, Denmark’s capital, began as a humble Viking fishing village in the 10th century, but rapid growth and prosperity during the time of the Kalmar Union (1397–1523) helped it to become the vibrant, modern city it is today. Renowned for its historic landmarks and stunning contemporary buildings, it has been awarded the title of World Capital of Architecture for 2023.
Here are some of my top places to visit:
Nyhavn
Although the name translates to ‘New Harbour’, this area of the city is over 350 years old. It was created as a gateway between Kongens Nytorv (King’s New Square) and the sea, and was once a red-light district and lawless hub for sailors. Hans Christian Andersen made it his home for almost two decades in the 19th century. Now, it’s an iconic waterfront street lined with colourful townhouses and historic wooden boats.
Copenhagen’s castles
Denmark is one of the oldest monarchies in the world and boasts a selection of majestic castles. Here are just a few:
Rosenborg was originally used as a country summerhouse for Danish royalty. Built in the Dutch Renaissance style and surrounded by Kongens Have (the King’s Gardens), it houses the Danish Crown Jewels.
Amalienborg is the official residence of the modern-day Danish Royal Family and is made up of four near-identical palaces around a central octagonal courtyard. Most of the palace buildings are for private use, but the Amalienborg Museum is open to the public and offers a look into the personal lives of these progressive royals.
Christiansborg, completed in 1928, houses the Danish parliament and the Supreme Court of Denmark, but parts of it are also used for state banquets. Visitors can view several reception rooms, the kitchen and the stables, as well as the ruins of the original 12th-century castle with its infamous Blue Tower. In the 17th century, Christian IV imprisoned his favourite daughter there for twenty-two years.
Some other great things to do in Copenhagen:
• Stroll through the beautiful Botanical Gardens and visit the Palm House with its luscious greenery and ancient trees.
• Wander the streets of Christianshavn, the trendy, yacht-filled neighbourhood bound on all sides by sparkling canals.
• View the statue of the Little Mermaid, the emblem of Copenhagen inspired by Hans Christian Andersen’s 1837 fairy tale.
• Go on a canal tour of the city.
• Discover a different side of Copenhagen at Freetown Christiania, the strange and colourful micro-nation established in 1971 that is clinging to its independence, both politically and culturally.
• Climb the four hundred steps to the top of the Church of Our Saviour, with its unique spiral staircase wrapping around the outside of the spire.
• Learn about the history of Denmark at one of the city’s many museums, such as the Natural History Museum, the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art or the National Museum of Denmark.
• Visit Helsingør and its famous castle Kronborg, better known as Elsinore in Shakespeare’s tragedy Hamlet.
• A rare example of expressionist church architecture, Grundtvigs Kirke is located in the Bispebjerg district. The building is shaped like a pipe organ.
Copenhagen Card
Visitor cards, available for 24 to 120 hours, can be purchased at www.copenhagencard.com and downloaded onto a handy mobile app. They cover public transport within the entire Danish Capital Region (including the train to Helsingør) and offer access to more than eighty attractions.
Where to stay
Coco Hotel Copenhagen is a bespoke boutique hotel in the Vesterbro area of the city, away from the hustle and bustle yet close to public transport. It mixes modern and classic styles with a serene, greenery-filled courtyard and a warm cafe/wine bar for post-sightseeing evenings.
The hotel is owned by the Copenhagen Food Collective and follows a sustainable ethos such as choosing only organic items for the minibar, using organic bed linen and running on green solar energy.
Where to eat
Bobo Food Studio draws you in with tantalising scents and a fusion of Danish and international tastes. The chefs serve an array of imaginative dishes with a sustainable footprint that nurtures both the body and soul. The three- and six-course tasting menus offer a perfect selection of mouth-watering modern cuisines. Don’t miss out on a craft cocktail from the bar. Bobo Food Studio can be found at The Socialist Hotel in the heart of the city centre.
Spuntino, part of the Copenhagen Food Collective, welcomes guests with the comforting scent of freshly-prepared Italian goodness, surrounded by greenery and sparkling lights. Organic and local produce is the name of the game here. The menu, featuring pizzas, antipasti and desserts, changes with the seasons, ensuring freshness and sustainability throughout the year. Spuntino is located in Vesterbro, just a short walk from Coco Hotel.
MALMÖ
Eight miles from Copenhagen across the Øresund strait is Malmö in Sweden. The two cities are joined by the Øresund Bridge, an impressive landmark that set the scene for the popular Nordic noir TV series Broen (The Bridge). Taking the train between Copenhagen and Malmö is the easiest way to cross, allowing you time to watch the sea birds rise from the sandy shores of Peberholm, a small islet created during the bridge’s construction, now reclaimed by nature and declared a protected area.
Malmö is smaller than Copenhagen in both size and population, and all its main attractions are within an easy distance of the Old Town, making it ideal for those who like to explore on foot.
Malmö Castle and Kungsparken
Originally built in 1434 down at the beach, Malmöhus took its current form in the mid-16th century. It’s surrounded by a moat and sits next to Kungsparken (King’s Park), an English-style riverside park built in 1870. The castle is home to a wealth of history and culture: the Malmö Art Museum, the City Museum, the Museum of Natural History, and the Science and Maritime House Museum.
Malmö’s Old Town – Gamla Väster
Three large squares in the centre of the city are linked by beautiful architecture dating from the 16th to the 18th centuries. Cobbled streets, painted townhouses and a strong sense of history abound, as do boutiques, restaurants and cafes, which are very important for the Swedish tradition of fika – taking time to enjoy a coffee and a chat.
St Peter’s Church
Impressive and stoic on the outside, the interior of this 14th-century basilica is surprisingly bright and airy. The main altarpiece is over 400 years old and is the largest wooden altar in Northern Europe. Underfoot, a number of 17th- and 18th-century tombstones are still visible despite the wear from centuries of traffic.
Some other great things to do in Malmö:
• Go for a stroll in Västra Hamnen, home to a historic lighthouse and the Turning Torso residential skyscraper, where you’ll find the best sunset views.
• Visit the Western Harbour on the Øresund sound and see how the city has transformed a run-down shipyard into a paragon of sustainable living.
• Join the locals in the summer as they flock to Ribersborg beach, just a thirty-minute walk from the city centre.
• Enjoy a variety of music, arts, sport, food and drink in August as the streets of Malmö are turned into an open-air festival (Malmöfestivalen).
• Try a variety of local food and drink at Malmö Saluhall, a refurbished warehouse dating back to the 1800s.
A fantastic foodie destination near the city centre.
Where to stay
Malmö’s Story Hotel is situated on the upper floors of Studio Malmö, a sustainable multi-purpose building that houses a co-working space, two restaurants and office spaces. Its comfortable, modern rooms come with stunning views across the city rooftops and the waters of the Øresund strait. The hotel goes to great lengths to increase its sustainability and decrease its carbon footprint; the wooden key cards are certainly unique!
- ‘Copenhagen and Malmö’ is published in Anthology Volume 19. Read more features from this volume or buy it now.
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