Words and photos Edel Cassidy
Aformer fishing village and once a summer retreat for Portuguese royalty, Cascais has blossomed into a cosmopolitan seaside hideaway. Just half an hour from Lisbon, it is renowned for its golden beaches, elegant architecture and vibrant cultural scene. I spent a few days in this coastal town, drawn by the Ageas Cooljazz festival.
By day, I explored its streets and waterfront, uncovering the layers of its rich and varied history. To appreciate Cascais today, it helps to see it in the context of Portugal’s past of royal glamour, wartime intrigue and global ties.
Portugal’s global influence has been forged by centuries of exploration and diplomacy. Its alliance with England, dating back to the 14th century, remains the world’s oldest diplomatic treaty. Portuguese merchants introduced New World crops like chillies and potatoes to Europe, and even inspired the Japanese classic tempura with their fried vegetable dish, ‘peixinhos da horta’.
The 20th century added another layer of intrigue. During WWII, neutral Portugal made Cascais and nearby Estoril a refuge for exiled monarchs and spies. Ian Fleming found inspiration at Casino Estoril for his first James Bond novel, Casino Royale.
These international connections also reached Ireland. The O’Neill family, part of a powerful Irish dynasty, settled here in the 18th century. Jorge O’Neill built the striking, castle-like Palácio dos Condes de Castro Guimarães, now a museum. In Lisbon, the Church of St. John the Baptist holds relics of St. Brigid, Ireland’s beloved patroness saint, a poignant reminder of the centuries-old ties between the two nations.
Just as Portugal’s influence has long reached beyond its borders, Cascais continues to draw international visitors through its vibrant cultural calendar, including the Festas do Mar, celebrating the town’s maritime traditions and the nearby Estoril Film Festival, which brings global cinema to the region.
The Ageas Cooljazz festival is a highlight of Cascais’s summer, perfectly reflecting its cosmopolitan spirit by drawing world-renowned musicians to the open-air gardens of Parque Marechal Carmona. The 2025 edition continued this tradition, but I was most excited for one act: the enormously successful Ezra Collective. They delivered an utterly captivating performance. Energetic and uplifting, they masterfully blended jazz with Afrobeat and reggae. The line between stage and audience blurred as they encouraged participation, transforming the evening into something more carnival-like than a traditional concert. It was a celebration of shared energy and a testament to their global appeal.
Away from the festival stage, I found that Cascais offered a wealth of experiences. A boat trip along the coastline provided a stunning new perspective. With a cocktail in hand, I watched the town’s whitewashed buildings and beaches slip by. The real thrill came when a pod of dolphins appeared and swam playfully alongside the boat.
Inland, I visited Quinta do Pisão in the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park. The air there smelled of wild herbs and tilled earth, and after a walk through its gardens, I enjoyed a fresh, seasonal al fresco lunch at the Cascais Food Lab – a perfect farm-to-table experience.
Of course, Cascais is famous for its beaches. The town’s main ones are ideal for sunbathing, while a short drive west brings you to the windswept Guincho Beach, a haven for surfers and kiteboarders. Nearby, the historic Fortaleza do Guincho now houses a boutique hotel and a Michelin-starred restaurant with sweeping Atlantic views.
While I didn’t have time to cycle the coastal paths, take a scenic helicopter ride or visit the fairytale palaces of Sintra, I left knowing there were still countless adventures, well worth saving for a return trip.
Where to stay
Hotel Vila Galé:Located just a five-minute walk from the historic centre and marina, and right next to the Palácio dos Condes de Castro Guimarães Museum, this modern hotel features a full-service spa, outdoor pool and sauna, making it ideal for families.
Where to eat
Cantinho do Avillez: Experience a taste of local celebrity chef José Avillez’s genius without the formality in this stylish bistro. The perfect place to share plates of incredibly creative Portuguese ‘petiscos’.
O Pescador Restaurante: Here, I tucked into the day’s catch grilled over charcoal and served with no pretence. It’s a timeless Cascais institution favoured by international celebrities whose photos grace the walls.
Fortaleza do Guincho: Dining within the stone walls of a 17th-century fort, with the Atlantic crashing below the window, is magic. The Michelin-starred cuisine pays homage to Portuguese flavours, making dining here an unforgettable event.
Marisco na Praça: Here, at the Cascais market, I selected seafood from the ice, and moments later, perfectly grilled, it was brought to my table – a fresh and fun culinary experience.
Getting there:
TAP Air Portugal, headquartered at Lisbon Airport (which also serves as its primary hub), operates approximately 2,500 weekly flights to 90 destinations across 34 countries. From the airport, it is roughly a 45-minute drive to Cascais.
‘History, harmony and sea: Finding the soul of Cascais’ is published in Anthology Volume 24. Read more features from this volume or buy it now.
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