Words Edel Cassidy
Earlier this year, I set out on a journey with a group of opera lovers to Hof in the heart of Bavaria, Germany to attend the premiere of my composer brother, Patrick Cassidy’s opera, Dante – From Inferno to Paradise. En route, we visited Berlin, where the city this year is commemorating the 35th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall, a pivotal moment in modern history that, much like Dante’s epic, symbolised a profound struggle between oppression and liberation – between despair and hope. I explored the key sites that embody the Wall’s legacy, discovering how the city has transformed from a place of separation and turmoil into one of hope and renewal.
With just one day to explore the city, I chose the very centrally located Hotel Steigenberger Am Kanzleramt, which is directly opposite the main train station and within walking distance of some of the key historical sites.
The Reichstag
This is one of Germany’s most iconic landmarks and as it is only a five-minute walk from my hotel, I started my tour here. From 1894, it served as the seat of the German parliament until it was severely damaged by a fire in 1933. Standing in close proximity to the Wall on the West side, it remained unused during the Cold War.
Germany’s federal parliament returned to the building in 1999, following extensive renovations, during which the famous glass dome was added. This modern feature symbolises transparency and democracy, offering visitors panoramic views of Berlin and the parliamentary chamber below.
The Brandenburg Gate
As I walked toward the Brandenburg Gate, my guide, Sabine, pointed out cobblestone markers embedded in the ground, tracing the former path of the Berlin Wall throughout the city. One of Germany’s most iconic landmarks, the Brandenburg Gate embodies both the country’s turbulent history and its unity. Completed in 1791 as a city gate, it stood in East Berlin during the Cold War, symbolising division. Today, it represents peace and reunification, frequently hosting commemorative and cultural events.
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe
A short walk from the Brandenburg Gate, this powerful, maze-like set of 2,711 concrete slabs is a profound site that commemorates the victims of the Holocaust. The memorial’s abstract design offers no explanation or prescribed walking path. But wandering through the maze of tomb-like slabs evokes a sense of loss and disorientation and also reflection.
Berlin’s cultural treasures
Berlin has so much more to offer than its famous historical landmarks that tell stories of past wars, as well as its many triumphs and tragedies. The city has a vibrant cultural scene, with 200 museums, 400 galleries, three opera houses, eight symphony orchestras, more than ninety cinemas, and around 150 theatres. In the historic heart of the city is Museum Island, located in the northern part of Spree Island. It is home to five world-renowned museums: the Altes Museum, Neues Museum, Alte Nationalgalerie, Bode-Museum and Pergamon Museum.
With limited time, I opted to explore the Humboldt Forum, which opened in 2021 across from Museum Island in the reconstructed Berlin Palace. Here, Germany’s largest non-European collections are presented with a commitment to contextualising their colonial origins. Many exhibits address the historical context of their origins, particularly those from the colonial era. Some artefacts have already been repatriated, while others remain on display with plans for eventual return.
My short trip to this fascinating city left me determined to return for a more in-depth visit to further explore Berlin’s vast cultural and historical offerings.
Hof’s historic setting
It was now time to travel south to Hof, a picturesque town with rich historical significance just 10 km from the Czech border. Due to its location near the former Iron Curtain, Hof became a vital gateway between East and West Germany after the Cold War, welcoming refugees from Eastern Europe and the former Soviet Union seeking new beginnings in a reunified Germany.
Hof’s role during this time makes it an especially meaningful location for the premiere of a work inspired by Dante Alighieri’s journey to Paradise, a work that resonates with themes of hope, redemption and unity.
The region around Hof is also a hub of European classical music and has an association with many influential composers. Johann Sebastian Bach spent his last twenty-seven years in nearby Leipzig, where he served as music director and cantor of St. Thomas Church. Today, Leipzig celebrates his legacy through the Bach Museum and the annual Bach Festival. Felix Mendelssohn led the Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra and established the Leipzig Conservatory; his contributions are commemorated at the Mendelssohn House Museum.
Richard Wagner, born in Leipzig and later lived in Bayreuth, also close to Hof, established the renowned Bayreuth Festival dedicated to his works. Johann Pachelbel was born in nearby Nuremberg, where he served as organist at St. Sebaldus Church. Given this region’s remarkable musical heritage, premiering a new work by a living composer here was both an extraordinary honour and marks the continuation of its rich tradition in the world of classical music.
I stayed at Hotel Central, conveniently located across from Theater Hof – a striking, modern theatre that houses the Hof Symphony Orchestra and stages operas, operettas, musicals and ballets.
The morning after my arrival, I met Jörg Behrendt from Hof’s Tourism Office for a guided tour of the town’s main sights. Just outside the hotel, a monument that resembles a wave-shaped newspaper page honours Dr. Johann Georg August Wirth, a lawyer, journalist and political activist who was born in Hof. Wirth championed press freedom and liberal reforms, notably contributing to the progressive Deutsche Zeitung in the period leading up to Germany’s 1848–1849 revolutions.
Crossing the bridge over the railway tracks, which leads to the town centre, Jörg explained how this bridge became a gathering spot where townspeople waved to welcome trains carrying refugees from Prague into Hof following the opening of the border crossings as the Iron Curtain was lifted.
Either end of Hof’s town centre is marked with two historic churches and landmarks that represent the town’s religious diversity and architectural heritage. St. Michael’s Church, a Protestant church dating back to the late Middle Ages, features a Baroque altar, intricate stained glass, and one of Bavaria’s finest organs. St. Mary’s Church, Hof’s Catholic counterpart, is renowned for its Gothic revival architecture, intricate stonework and towering spires.
Across from St. Michael’s, the Town Hall and Bell Tower create a picturesque focal point. Climbing the Bell Tower’s 152 steps rewards visitors with panoramic views of the town. The best time to visit is at noon, when the bells of Town Hall and St. Michael’s both ring out.
Just outside the town, there is a beautiful botanical garden, with a small zoo located just across the road, making Hof an ideal spot for a family getaway. Lake Untreusee is about 4 km from Hof and is easily accessible by car, bicycle or a scenic walk along well-marked trails. This lake is a popular destination for outdoor activities such as boating, swimming, hiking and picnics.
Hof is celebrated for its street sausages, sold by the traditional ‘Wärschtlamo’ or sausage men, who cook them in coal-fired brass pots. It also has a long and proud history of brewing beer and is the perfect place to sample classic German brews. The town also hosts an international annual film festival that attracts renowned film producers and showcases the best of European cinema.
Bringing Dante’s journey to life: A triumphant world premiere
The world premiere of Dante – From Inferno to Paradise at Theater Hof was a deeply moving experience that brought Dante Alighieri’s Divine Comedy to life through Patrick Cassidy’s evocative score. The production, under the direction of Reinhardt Friese, explored Dante’s journey through the afterlife’s realms, capturing the essence of his 14th-century philosophical vision. Minseok Kim, the celebrated tenor, brought an intense portrayal of Dante, while Stefanie Rhaue, as Virgil, skilfully guided him through the stages of Hell and Purgatory.
Cassidy’s renowned aria Vide Cor Meum, featured in the films Hannibal and Kingdom of Heaven, ultimately led to the creation of his three-act, twenty-scene opera dedicated to the iconic Italian poet, bringing his exploration of love, loss and redemption to the stage.
The production’s contemporary staging featured the Hof Choir and Ballet Company and the Hof Symphony Orchestra, who delivered a powerful and moving portrayal of Dante’s tragic love story. Following the performance, the audience gave a lengthy standing ovation. There was support from many Irish fans, including a group from the Irish Institute for Culture Travel and members of the Blessington Choir led by Harry Meyer. There were also attendees from the USA and across Europe, including Giovanni Adorni Braccesi, former Italian Ambassador to Ireland, who bestowed on Cassidy the Italian honour of Cavaliere in 2017.
Expressing gratitude for the evening, Patrick shared: ‘Thank you to everyone for making the night so special for me and my family. The project was a labour of love, and witnessing it happen and so magnificently performed by Theater Hof was wonderful. Certainly a career highlight.’
He also described the opera’s inspiration, explaining that Dante first met Beatrice at age nine, falling in love with all his heart. After her early death, Dante was inspired by a vision of Beatrice in Paradise to write his masterpiece, Divine Comedy. The opera unites them in Heaven, creating a moving narrative that aligns with Hof’s own legacy of renewal and unity.
Special thanks to my travel companions, Patricia, Gail, Eugene, Sean, Regina, Jarlath and Anne for the company and shared moments on our journey to Hof.
- ‘Berlin to Hof: A pilgrimage to Patrick Cassidy’s epic opera’ masterpiece’ is published in Anthology Volume 22. Read more features from this volume or buy it now.
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