Words matthew cassidy
Spanning millennia of history and stretching across vast, varied landscapes, China is a country of extraordinary contrasts. As the world’s most populous nation and second-largest by land area, it offers a unique blend of the ancient and the ultra-modern. Join me as I travel from Shanghai’s skyscrapers to Chongqing’s vertiginous streets and Suzhou’s timeless canals.
Shanghai: The pulse of modern China
Shanghai’s history spans over a thousand years, but its rise has largely been driven by trade. Thanks to its strategic position at the mouth of the Yangtze River, it became one of China’s key ports, linking the country to global commerce and cultural exchange. Walking its streets, I saw traces of this layered past, from traditional shikumen houses and quiet temples to boulevards lined with Western-style buildings. Yet Shanghai is unmistakably modern, with soaring skyscrapers, vast shopping districts and a remarkably efficient and reasonably priced metro system. The streets are immaculately clean, and the number of electric vehicles – Shanghai is a leader in EV adoption – is immediately noticeable. Now a global financial hub and the world’s busiest container port, it’s a city constantly looking ahead. Here are some highlights from my visit…
People’s Square, Nanjing Road Pedestrian Street and The Bund
Just a ten-minute stroll from my centrally located hotel, The Sukhothai, People’s Square is a major hub for politics, commerce, culture and transport. From there, I continued along Nanjing Road Pedestrian Street, which begins at the square and immediately immersed me in the city’s energy. Stretching 5.5 km, it’s one of the world’s longest shopping streets and draws over a million visitors a day. Lined with shops, restaurants and street performers, it’s the perfect place to feel Shanghai’s fast-paced rhythm.
At the far end, I reached The Bund, a waterfront promenade along the Huangpu River, from which I had a sweeping view of the futuristic skyline across the river – especially picturesque at night when the towers are lit up. On my side, the scene was remarkably different – grand Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Art Deco buildings stood as reminders of the strong foreign presence that shaped this part of the city in the 19th and early 20th centuries.
Yuyuan Garden and Old Street
Walking south along the river, I reached Yuyuan Garden, a classical Chinese garden dating back to the Ming dynasty. Its pavilions, ponds and rock formations create a tranquil escape from the city’s fast pace. Adjacent to the garden, Yuyuan Old Street is a lively marketplace where you can shop for souvenirs, sample local snacks and admire traditional Chinese architecture.
Shanghai Museum
Returning to People’s Square, I visited the Shanghai Museum, known for its outstanding collection of ancient Chinese art. Its galleries feature bronzes, ceramics, calligraphy, paintings and classical furniture. It was an enriching way to spend a few hours and gain insight into China’s artistic heritage.
Tianzifang and Xintiandi
To explore a different side of Shanghai, I visited Tianzifang with its maze of narrow alleyways filled with galleries, boutique shops and cafés. Set in a former residential area of shikumen houses, it has retained much of its original charm. Nearby, Xintiandi offers a more upscale take on the shikumen style – this pedestrian district has been redeveloped with stylish shops, restaurants and galleries, and
is popular with locals and tourists.
Chongqing: A metropolis carved into hills
I next travelled west to Chongqing, a city that feels worlds apart from Shanghai. With the Yangtze and Jialing Rivers winding through its heart and surrounded by mountains, it’s known as the ‘Mountain City’. My visit was an opportunity to gain a deeper understanding of China’s geographic and cultural diversity and modernisation.
Chongqing’s infrastructure is as dramatic as its landscape. With limited flat land, the city has developed vertically: buildings often have multiple street-level entrances depending on elevation, and elevators scale cliffs to connect neighbourhoods. Roads layer up to five levels, and some underground streets reach thirty floors deep.
Given its complexity, Chongqing can be challenging to navigate. A guided walking tour is a great way to explore, especially in the Yuzhong District – considered the city’s core, it is situated on a peninsula formed by the two rivers.
Here are a few key stops I’d recommend…
Liziba Station
This is a remarkable metro stop where a monorail train passes through a residential building – a perfect example of Chongqing’s vertical cityscape and clever urban design.
Kuixing Building and Plaza
This busy shopping area highlights how Chongqing’s architecture adapts to its steep terrain. From the plaza’s ground level, the opposite side drops twenty-four storeys straight down – a striking example of the city’s dramatic vertical landscape.
Hongya Cave (Hongyadong)
Next, I made my way down to the riverside to explore Hongya Cave, a sprawling eleven-storey structure built into a steep cliff overlooking the Jialing River. With its traditional façades, lantern-lit walkways and lively food stalls, it’s one of Chongqing’s most atmospheric sights. My hotel, the Regent, was just across the river and the view from my window was especially magical when the complex was illuminated at night.
Raffles City Chongqing
About a kilometre east, where the Yangtze and Jialing Rivers meet, stands another architectural wonder, Raffles City. This stunning complex includes eight towers, the tallest two rising to 350 metres, and contains offices, a mall, a hotel and apartments. Its standout feature is The Crystal, a 300-metre sky bridge connecting four towers 250 metres above ground. It’s the world’s largest indoor sky garden, complete with an observation deck offering panoramic city views and one of China’s highest swimming pools.
E’ling Park
After navigating Chongqing’s soaring towers and intricate infrastructure, I was ready for something calmer. I visited E’ling Park, a peaceful retreat set on a hill overlooking the city. With its shaded pathways, pavilions and panoramic views of the Yangtze and Jialing Rivers, it offered a welcome contrast to the city’s dizzying verticality.
Neighbourhood charms
To delve deeper into Chongqing’s local culture, I took a neighbourhood walking tour. Starting at Tongyuan Gate, a preserved section of the old city wall, I wandered through the HuaYiPo area, where narrow streets and traditional houses reflect the city’s rich past. From there, I continued along Zhongshan Fourth Road, a historic thoroughfare lined with early 20th-century buildings and lively markets. It was a rewarding way to experience everyday life in Chongqing and connect with its residents.
One essential local experience is sampling Chongqing’s famed hotpot – fiery, fragrant and perfect for sharing – a taste of the city’s bold culinary identity.
Return to Shanghai
I returned to Shanghai two days before my flight home and checked into The PuLi Hotel and Spa, a tranquil urban resort ideal for unwinding after a busy travel itinerary. Situated in Jing’an, one of Shanghai’s most vibrant districts, it is known for its upscale shopping, sleek office blocks and vibrant cultural scene. I used the time to explore nearby attractions and even managed a day trip to Suzhou. Though nearly 100 km away, the journey took just twenty-five minutes by high-speed train.
Jing’an Temple
Just a five-minute walk from my hotel, the Jing’an Temple is one of Shanghai’s most famous and active Buddhist temples. Surrounded by contemporary high-rises, its golden rooftops and calming courtyards create a striking contrast to the urban skyline. Originally built over 1,700 years ago and relocated to its current site in the early 13th century, the temple has been rebuilt multiple times.
Jing’an Park
Across the road to the south of the temple, Jing’an Park, once a cemetery for foreign residents, is now a beautifully landscaped public space. Its main highlight is the inner garden containing a teahouse, bamboo groves and historical relics, including the original ‘bubbling well’, considered the spiritual heart of the area. Locals come here for tai chi, dancing or simply to enjoy a silent moment.
Suzhou: A city of gardens and canals
Often referred to as the ‘Venice of the East’, Suzhou is renowned for its classical gardens and network of ancient canals. Stone bridges and whitewashed buildings flank narrow waterways where wooden boats still glide past, offering a serene contrast to China’s major cities.
Suzhou’s UNESCO-listed classical gardens are a highlight. The Humble Administrator’s Garden, the city’s largest, is a masterpiece of Ming-era landscaping with winding paths, lotus ponds and pavilions. The Lingering Garden is famed for its intricate rockeries and elegant halls, while the more intimate Master of the Nets Garden captures the essence of Suzhou’s artistic and philosophical heritage.
Historic Pingjiang Road, lined with teahouses, shops and lantern-lit canals, is an idyllic spot for a quiet stroll, especially at dusk when lanterns reflect on the water. For something quirky, there is a cat café in a old-fashioned courtyard – an unexpected experience that captures the city’s unique tradition and charm with a playful local twist.
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