Words Edel Cassidy
Stretching along France’s sun-kissed Atlantic coast between Nantes and La Rochelle, the Vendée region boasts an impressive blend of natural beauty, rich history and quaint charm. To understand the uniqueness of the Vendée and its people, it is important to consider the region’s history. It is a territory with a strong identity that will forever be remembered as the epicentre of the largest counter-revolutionary uprising of the French Revolution.
While much of France embraced the radical changes of the Revolution, the Vendée remained deeply loyal to the monarchy and the Church. This opposition sparked the brutal Vendée War, a series of battles between 1793 and 1796.
Key events such as the execution of King Louis XVI, the Civil Constitution of the Clergy – an effort to reform the French Church and make it accountable to the nation, and forced conscription triggered outrage. In response, local peasants formed the Catholic and Royal Army. Despite their lack of training and only armed with pitchforks, axes, knives, hunting guns and whatever else might serve as a weapon, they initially outmanoeuvred the well-experienced Republican soldiers.
By late 1793, however, Republican forces crushed the Vendéens by burning villages and crops and somewhere between 20,000 and 50,000 civilians were massacred. This brutality, including the murder of women and children, shocked even loyal supporters of the Revolution. The violence led to increasing disillusionment with the Reign of Terror, prompting efforts to stabilise France by those who favoured a more conservative regime and religious freedom.
The Vendée offers a wealth of experiences and I’m delighted to share a guide to some of the places that I explored during my visit to this captivating region of western France.
Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie
My first stop was the picturesque seaside town of Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, located about 70 km south of Nantes. It is one of the oldest fishing ports in the Vendée and the largest sardine port on the Atlantic coast. A visit to Escale Pêche, a fishing museum, provides insights into the seafood supply chain, from ocean to plate and the town’s rich maritime heritage.
This is a cyclist’s paradise, with 350 km of cycle paths that weave through forests, dunes, marshlands, vineyards and along the Vendée headland, connecting fourteen towns and numerous beaches. It is also a great destination for water sports and sailboat trips along the coastline. For those seeking a more relaxed outing, a stroll along the harbour is the perfect way to take in the town’s coastal beauty.
The Salt Marshes of Saint-Hilaire-de-Riez
Just a short drive from Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie are the salt marshes of Saint-Hilaire-de-Riez, where the centuries-old tradition of salt production continues. These expansive marshes also provide an opportunity to see the unique flora and fauna that thrive in this environment. The salt harvested here, known as ‘fleur de sel’ is prized for its delicate flavour and is regularly used in French cuisine.
Saint-Michel-Mont-Mercure Church
Leaving the coastline, I headed inland to visit this striking landmark perched on one of the highest points in the region and dominating the skyline. It is known for its distinctive bell tower, and visitors can climb the 199 steps to reach the top for a stunning glimpse of the town below and the Vendée landscape. A gleaming golden statue, more than 9 m in height, of Saint Michael the Archangel slaying the dragon sits on top of the bell tower, adding to the church’s majestic presence.
Pouzauges
This charming town is known for its medieval castle and beautiful hilltop vista complemented by winding streets and traditional French architecture. The town endured a tragic event during the Vendée War, when 400 people were massacred by revolutionary armies during Christmas midnight Mass in 1793.
Château de Pouzauges is an ancient fortified castle, now in ruins. In the 15th century, it was home to Catherine de Thouars, wife of Gilles de Rais – a French nobleman and military leader who fought alongside Joan of Arc, and later became infamous for his conviction of horrific crimes, including child abduction and murder.
Château de Tiffauges
A well-preserved medieval fortress dating back to the 12th century, this castle was once the home of the notorious Gilles de Rais. Today, it hosts a wide range of special events and shows, including historic re-enactments around the art of war in the Middle Ages.
Here, you can witness live demonstrations of medieval war equipment, featuring Europe’s largest collection of working war machines, from catapults to throwing devices. Under supervision, visitors are welcome to have a go at operating some of these rather intimidating contraptions.
Le Logis de la Chabotterie
This final stop on my visit to the region is the site where the Vendée uprising against the French revolutionary government came to an end. It was here, on 23 March 1796, that General François de Charette, a key leader of the Vendéen royalist forces, was captured. Today, an exquisitely preserved 18th-century manor stands on the site and is home to a museum that features a multimedia exhibition retracing the major stages of the conflict. Visitors can also enjoy the grounds, which include a French-style garden with medicinal plants, a kitchen garden and an ornamental garden with over 120 varieties of flowers.
Flavours of the Vendée
From bustling market stalls to Michelin-starred restaurants, a visit to the Vendée is sure to be a gourmet experience filled with local flavours. Between land and sea, the local products and specialities to discover include oysters, mussels and sardines from Saint-Gilles to Vendée ham, Challans duck and Vendée’s famous brioche and gâche. Don’t leave without visiting some of these standout restaurants.
Pilours, Saint-Hilaire-de-Riez This new restaurant in Saint-Hilaire-de-Riez serves exceptional cuisine with panoramic views of the Atlantic. Set on a rocky promontory, it boasts a chic, Art Deco-inspired interior that blends modern elegance with warmth. With a passion for quality, chef Stéphane Piveteau delivers refined, creative dishes crafted from fresh, locally sourced ingredients, ensuring every meal is both flavourful and authentic.
L’Inattendu, Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie Delivering delightful surprises from start to finish, L’Inattendu certainly lives up to its name, with its innovative, seasonal cuisine crafted by chef Paul Bonneau. With a creative flair and a focus on local produce, wild ingredients and daily catches from the nearby fish market, he creates dishes that delight the taste buds. The menu features unexpected pairings like pearly fish with sweet potato and fermented raspberries.
Les Brisants, Brétignolles-sur-Mer Les Brisants is a Michelin-starred restaurant offering a wonderful seaside culinary experience. Chef Jean-Marc Perochon, a welcoming and entertaining host, is a native of the small village of Curzon in the south of the Vendée. His exquisite dishes are crafted using fresh, local ingredients like lobster, sea bass and seasonal vegetables. Les Brisants is also a boutique hotel, with each room providing a spectacular view from a private balcony.
Villa Métis, Les Herbiers This boutique hotel and restaurant presents a unique blend of authenticity and modernity, with the restaurant serving a seasonal bistronomic menu. Nestled in a lush garden, Villa Métis is the perfect destination for relaxation and gourmet dining. This characterful building houses ten beautifully decorated rooms, each delivering comfort and style with modern amenities and cosy spaces, where a view of the estate’s surroundings and magnificent century-old trees can be enjoyed.
- ‘The Timeless Charm of the Vendée’ is published in Anthology Volume 22. Read more features from this volume or buy it now.
- Browse more features in travel.
- If you enjoyed this feature, we’d love it if you would share it!