Words Frank Cassidy
If you want to escape the crowds in Rome, these less-visited sites offer the chance to explore some hidden corners of the city and learn about its rich history, cultural heritage and inspiring beauty.
Palazzo Colonna
This privately owned palace, one of the city’s oldest and most impressive, has been the residence of the noble Colonna family for eight centuries. Originating from the town of Colonna, near Rome, the family’s lineage includes a mayor, numerous cardinals and bishops, and even a pope.
The palazzo is a labyrinth of magnificent rooms decorated with exquisite frescoes, marble sculptures and gilded ceilings. One of its highlights is the Galleria Colonna, which holds a vast collection of masterpieces by artists such as Guercino, Salvator Rosa, Jacopo Tintoretto and Francesco Salviati.
In addition to its splendid interior, Palazzo Colonna boasts a beautifully landscaped courtyard bedecked with statues and fountains. On the ground floor, the Princess Isabelle Apartment, built on the foundations of the ancient Temple of Serapis, stands as a regal sanctuary, offering a glimpse into the opulent lifestyle of this aristocratic family.
Villa Borghese Gardens
The sprawling site, spanning 226 acres from Piazza del Popolo to the top of Via Veneto, encompasses a breathtaking expanse of villas, monuments, serene lakes and meticulously landscaped gardens.
Built on a former vineyard, the gardens were originally part of the private estate of the Borghese family and became a public park in the early 20th century. There are several notable attractions, including the Galleria Borghese. It contains an impressive collection of masterpieces, including three of Caravaggio’s works, David with the Head of Goliath, Boy with a Basket of Fruit and Saint Jerome Writing. There are also works by Bernini, Raphael and Peter Paul Rubens.
The gardens are a perfect destination for families. Children can enjoy a picnic or a bike ride amidst the stunning surroundings, and Rome’s zoo, the Bioparco, located within the gardens, is home to a variety of exotic animals. In 2004, the zoo underwent a transformation to become an institution that focused on the conservation of endangered species, biodiversity education and scientific research.
Basilica of San Clemente
This ancient church, a three-tiered complex of buildings, has a surprising Irish connection. San Clemente has been in the care of the Irish Dominicans since 1667 when Pope Urban VIII gave them refuge from Cromwellian religious persecution.
The stunning interior is packed with intricate frescoes and ornate decorations. However, the real treasure lies in the lower levels of the church, now open to the public. An excavation carried out in 1857, with Prior Joseph Mullooly of County Longford at the helm, led to one of the most astonishing discoveries in the history of Christian archaeology.
Beneath the current basilica, they found a fourth-century church containing some beautiful frescoes. These captivating artworks represent some of the earliest examples of medieval wall paintings ever found.
And below that again were discovered the remnants of an ancient temple dedicated to Mithras, the ancient god of the rising sun. Just across a narrow alleyway, a large public building was unearthed, which is now believed to have been part of the imperial mint constructed in the first century.
Isola Tiberina
Did you know there’s a charming island in the Tiber River, right in the centre of Rome? Steeped in ancient legend and with picturesque views of the city, this small oasis is connected to the mainland by two historic bridges.
The island’s centrepiece is the Basilica di San Bartolomeo all’Isola, a beautiful church with a rich history dating back to the 10th century. The narrow streets, lined with quaint houses and cosy eateries, are delightful to explore. In the evenings, the pop-up bars and restaurants that line the riverbanks add a vibrant atmosphere, especially during the summer months.
The island truly comes alive each year when it’s transformed into the hub for the Tiberina Island Film Festival. This open-air event shows an array of films against the backdrop of the river, creating a magical cinematic experience.
Largo di Torre Argentina
Early in the 20th century, a decision was made to demolish the Torre Argentina area in Rome as part of the city’s reconstruction. During the subsequent demolition in 1927, the head and arms of a colossal marble statue were unearthed. Further archaeological exploration took place, revealing four ancient Roman temples and the remains of the Theatre of Pompey, the site where Julius Caesar met his untimely end in 44 BC. The archaeological site in the heart of the city has been preserved and is now open to visitors.
However, Largo di Torre Argentina is significant for more than its history. It also serves as a haven for Rome’s stray cats through the Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary, established in 1994. Within the sanctuary, dedicated volunteers provide food, medical care and a nurturing environment for its feline inhabitants.
Largo di Torre Argentina, with its ancient ruins and endearing cat sanctuary, is a must-visit destination for animal lovers and history enthusiasts alike.
The Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo
Located near the northern side of Rome’s iconic Piazza del Popolo, the Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo is a perfect example of Renaissance and baroque architecture. Founded in 1099, the church was bestowed upon the Order of Saint Augustine in the mid-13th century, and they have maintained it ever since.
Having undergone several renovations over the centuries, the church is as impressive inside as it is outside, with many magnificent artworks on display. Down the aisles are several beautifully decorated side chapels with intricate marble carvings and spectacular stained-glass windows.
The Chigi Chapel, designed by Raphael, showcases his brilliant artistic vision, and breathtaking frescoes and sculptures are a testament to his refined taste. In the left transept, near the altar, is the Cerasi Chapel, which houses two of Caravaggio’s masterpieces, The Conversion of Saint Paul and The Crucifixion of Saint Peter. These remarkable works add greatly to the artistic splendour of the church.
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