A city with timeless charm, Istanbul owes much of its rich history to the rise and fall of the world’s most famous empires and to its location as a meeting place between continents and traditions.
Istanbul is a natural gateway between the continents of Europe and Asia, enjoying easy access to Africa, the Mediterranean, the Black Sea and the Balkans. The city’s position as a nexus between three continents has made it very important strategically for many rulers and empires, who constantly attacked and besieged it over the centuries.
Originally known as Byzantion (later Latinised to Byzantium), the city was founded in the seventh century BC by the ancient Greek colonist Byzas the Megarian, from whom it took its name, and it continued to flourish as a centre of trade and commerce under the rule of the Roman Emperor Constantine. Following his death in AD 337, it was renamed Constantinople and continued as the seat of the Byzantine Empire until the mid fifteenth century.
In 1453, the city was captured by the Ottoman Turks under the leadership of Sultan Mehmet II, and Constantinople became Istanbul, retaining this name when the Republic of Turkey was established in 1923.
Istanbul is known as the City on the Seven Hills, a legacy from Byzantine Constantinople, which was intentionally modelled on Rome, also built on seven hills. Today, Istanbul is a vibrant melting pot of ideologies, religions and cultures that reflect its long and diverse history, making it a fascinating place to visit and giving you an experience that you won’t forget.
Before you go
Getting to Istanbul is very straightforward, as the country’s national carrier, Turkish Airlines, has established itself as a global super-connector flying to more destinations than any other airline – 227 international destinations in 119 countries. In recent years the airline has won many awards for its superior service and was selected as a ‘5-Star Global Airline’ based on passenger feedback alone.
Istanbul is a large city and has many must-see attractions to visit, so it’s a good idea to make yourself familiar with the geography and plan an itinerary in advance. Istanbul’s European side (to the west) is separated from its Asian side by the magnificent Bosphorus Strait, which connects the Black Sea with the Sea of Marmara and is one of the world’s most strategic waterways.
The Golden Horn, the primary inlet of the Bosphorus, further splits the European side of Istanbul into two districts. To the south lies the Historical Peninsula or Old Town. This was the ancient city of Constantinople, and most of the city’s cultural attractions are concentrated here – mosques, churches, palaces, gardens and museums. Directly across the Golden Horn is the Beyoğlu district or New Town. It does have its historical landmarks, but it’s the area that boasts the most prestigious hotels, as well as nightlife, restaurants and shopping. For my recent visit to Istanbul, I stayed at the CVK Park Bosphorus Hotel, an elegant five-star gem. It’s centrally located – just a two-minute walk to Taksim Square – and has a breath-taking panoramic view of the Bosphorus.
The Istanbul Tourist Pass
This digital pass gives access to 75+ attractions, experiences and services in the city, including guided tours of most of the major visitor attractions. To get the best value from the pass, purchase it in advance of your trip so you can plan an itinerary that fits with the times of guided tours and events.
Roaming charges for calls, texts and internet access can be high in Turkey and this pass includes free access to Wi-Fi hotspots with unlimited use of the internet. It also includes evening entertainment such as the Bosphorus Dinner Cruise and transport on the Hop On Hop Off bus. Your pass can be purchased at https://istanbultouristpass.com/
Must-see Istanbul attractions
The Old Town was the heart of the Byzantine, Constantine and Ottoman empires and is still regarded as the historic and cultural heart of Istanbul. It is here that most of the historic sites are located, all within walking distance of each other.
Topkapi Palace
This is a good starting point to begin your tour. Commissioned by Sultan Mehmed II between 1460 and 1478, Topkapi Palace is set at the top of the most prominent of the city’s seven hills and was designed to reflect the power, wealth and opulence of the Ottoman Empire. The architectural style is a mix of Ottoman and Baroque and consists of four separate courtyards with various exhibitions.
It’s a massive complex occupying an area of 700,000 square metres, so allow about two hours for your visit. I strongly recommend booking the guided tour as your guide will offer lots of historical context and information.Here are the highlights:
Imperial Treasury – Features a collection of rare and beautiful artefacts made from, or decorated with, gold, silver, emeralds, jades, rubies, pearls and diamonds. Not to be missed is the 86-carat pear-shaped Kasıkçı (Spoonmaker’s) Diamond, a teardrop-shaped rock surrounded by a double row of 49 smaller old-mine cut diamonds. The origin of the diamond is uncertain, but I rather like the tale told by locals that the diamond was discovered by a poor fisherman in Eğrikapı, who unwittingly sold it for three wooden spoons. It then passed hands several times between local jewellers. When Sultan Mehmed IV heard about the diamond, he ordered it to be brought to the palace and placed in the treasury.
Also on display is the Topkapi Dagger; one side of the handle is encrusted with three massive Columbian emeralds and 53 diamonds. It was commissioned for the powerful Iranian leader Nadir Shah in 1746, but as he was assassinated before it was delivered, the dagger was returned to the treasury.
Arms and Weapons – This collection is made up of more than 33,000 weapons and includes those seized from conquered countries, those given as gifts by visiting diplomats and those personally commissioned by the sultans. In addition to featuring weapons of war, many are rare works of art.
Clock and Watch Collection – One of the world’s finest mechanical clock and pocket watch collections, produced over a period of 400 years, and includes pieces from England, France, Russia, Austria and Switzerland. Some are made of silver and gold and adorned with precious stones.
Porcelains Collection – This exhibition has a section containing Japanese and Chinese porcelain, while another section is devoted to European porcelain, mainly from Vienna and Sevres. Chinese porcelain was a rare and precious commodity that merchants transported along the trade route of the Silk Road. Celadon service ware was particularly in demand as it was believed to change colour if it contained poisoned food – a particularly useful feature for sultans, who lived in permanent fear of assassination.
Imperial Harem – An additional entry fee is required to visit the Harem but it’s well worth it as this is the most opulent and lavishly decorated part of the palace. It houses the private apartments of the various sultans, who lived here with their wives, children, concubines, extended family and servants.
Hagia Sophia
Just a five-minute walk from Topkapi Palace is the Hagia Sophia, one of Istanbul’s most treasured landmarks and one of the world’s most magnificent Byzantine structures.
The building, considered a symbol of Christianity and Islam’s shared history, also has pagan connections. The site was a place of pagan worship prior to the building of the ‘Megale Ekklesia’ (Great Church), which was commissioned by Constantine the Great, the first Christian Roman emperor.
The current Hagia Sophia (the Church of Holy Wisdom) was built as a Christian cathedral in AD 537 by Emperor Justinian I. He wanted to create a structure that represented the entire Byzantine Empire, using materials from every province. There are 140 beautiful columns, including those brought from the Artemis Temple in Ephesus (Temple of Diana), one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. The basilica served as an Orthodox Christian church for over 900 years until it was converted into a mosque when the city was conquered by the Ottomans in 1453.
Testimony of the building’s complex past is embedded in its walls in the form of elaborate Christian mosaics. Many of these images were painted or plastered over by the Ottoman Turks. They were uncovered before the space opened as a museum in 1935.
One notable surviving mosaic depicts two of the most famous emperors, Justinian and Constantine, and appears as a lunette at the entrance over the south-west door. It marks the connection between church and empire. On the left, Justinian presents a model of his masterwork, the Hagia Sophia, and on the right, Constantine presents his great legacy, the city of Constantinople, to the holy family. Dating from the tenth century, the mosaic is a testament to the greatness of both emperors as it was created hundreds of years after their reigns.
The oldest mosaic in Hagia Sophia, located in the apse, depicts the Virgin Mary holding the child Christ on her lap. It dates back to around 860.
Since the time of its construction, Hagia Sophia has served as a church, a mosque, a museum, and is now once again a mosque. Each day Muslims pray in the presence of Christian icons and pillars that were sacred to a pagan goddess, demonstrating the complex past of this magnificent building.
Visitors tip: Book a guided tour (included in your Istanbul Tourist Pass), or research before you go as there is not a lot of information available to indicate where the points of interest are located.
Sultanahmet Square
As you step out of Hagia Sophia, you find yourself in Sultanahmet Square. This is the site of the fourth-century Hippodrome built by Constantine the Great. Located in the heart of the old city, this is a great spot to take a break where you can relax on the benches, soak in the atmosphere and enjoy some of Istanbul’s diverse and delicious street food.
While only a few fragments of the ancient Hippodrome remain, there are other relics of times past to enjoy. Standing almost twenty metres tall, the Obelisk of Theodosius was brought from Egypt by Emperor Theodosius I. It had originally been erected in Karnak in the fifteenth century BC. The German Fountain, a gift from the German Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1898, is a gazebo-styled structure in the neo-Byzantine style. The dome’s ceiling is decorated with gold mosaics.
The Sultan Ahmet Mosque
This beautiful structure, which faces Hagia Sophia on the opposite side of Sultanahmet Square, is also known as the Blue Mosque because of the exquisite blue Iznik ceramic tiles that decorate its interior.
It was commissioned by Sultan Ahmet I as a show of Ottoman power after suffering a crushing defeat in the Ottoman–Safavid War (1603–1618). He wanted a mosque that would surpass the prestige of the Hagia Sophia. Victorious emperors usually paid for such extravagances from the spoils of war, but as they had been defeated this time, Ahmet procured the funds from the government treasury, a decision that proved to be unpopular.
Six towering minarets, a central dome surrounded by four other main domes and eight secondary domes make for an impressive sight, especially when floodlit at night.
Grand Bazaar
Only a fifteen-minute walk from Sultanahmet Square is the Grand Bazaar (the tram that runs through the Old Town stops right outside). It’s a chaotic maze of bustling streets and alleys, with 4,000 perennially busy retail outlets, which makes this a fascinating if somewhat daunting place to explore.
You’ll find gold and silver, jewellery, carpets, lamps and lanterns, ceramics, spices, and lots more. Serious shoppers should reserve a full morning or afternoon. Don’t be intimidated by hagglers or those who offer tea, but take time to chat with the shopkeepers and accept their genuine Turkish hospitality. I was only able to spend an hour here, but it gave me a taste of the atmosphere and a definite desire to return.
Visitors tip: It’s so large that it’s easy to lose your way, so it’s a good idea to take the guided tour, which is included with the Istanbul Tourist Pass.
Spice Bazaar
A five-minute walk from the Grand Bazaar is where you’ll find a glorious assortment of colourful and aromatic spices. Stalls also sell dried fruits and herbs, nuts, cheeses, teas, soaps and Turkish delight in every flavour and colour imaginable. First built in 1660, this bazaar has been the centre of the spice trade here ever since.
Galata Bridge
Catch a tram from the Eminönü stop to cross the Golden Horn by tram, or experience walking over this wonderful bridge that connects the north and south of European Istanbul. Street vendors selling snacks and souvenirs line the route, along with hordes of fishermen casting their lines into the estuary below. The bridge is made up of two levels: the top level is for pedestrians, cars and trams, and the level below is full of cafes and restaurants.
Galata Tower
Dating back to the Byzantine period, this tower is believed to be one of the oldest in the world. Over the centuries it has been severely damaged by fires, storms, earthquakes, crusades and the Ottomans, and has therefore gone through many repairs and reconstructions. The last was completed as recently as 1967 when the wooden dome was replaced with a concrete structure and an elevator was installed.
This popular attraction has served as a fire tower, a lighthouse, an observatory and even a prison. Today, one of the upper floors is used as a restaurant; it also has a viewing terrace with a spectacular panoramic view of the city and a museum that showcases artefacts from various periods of İstanbul’s history, dating back to prehistoric times.
İstiklal Avenue
A short, steep downhill walk from Galata Tower takes you to one end of İstiklal (Independence) Avenue, which commemorates the establishment of the Turkish Republic in 1923. Take a ride along the avenue on the nostalgic red tram right up to Taksim Square, or enjoy a walk through along this famous street. As well as shops, restaurants, museums and arcades, there are some striking examples of Art Nouveau and Neoclassical architecture to admire.
Taksim Square
Enjoy a stroll around Taksim Square, the centre of modern Istanbul. It’s a great place for little souvenir or craft shops or to enjoy some food at the many restaurants or street carts offering traditional culinary goodies. A particular favourite is grilled or boiled corn on the cob. Try a glass of ayran with your meal, a traditional Turkish cold yoghurt beverage. It’s delicious and refreshing and especially popular during summer as it’s packed with electrolytes that help prevent dehydration.
In the centre of the square sits the iconic monument of the Republic, built in 1928 to commemorate the fifth anniversary of the foundation of the Republic of Turkey.
Dolmabahçe Palace
Unless you are up for more walking (approximately 20 minutes), taking a taxi is the best way to get from Taksim Square to Dolmabahçe Palace. This impressive landmark, which sits at the edge of the Bosphorus, was built by Sultan Abdülmecid I between 1843 and 1856 because he felt that Topkapi Palace didn’t meet the standard of the palaces of the European monarchs.
Inspired by the Palace of Versailles, it is a combination of Western Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassical style architecture with elements of Ottoman influence. Perhaps Abdülmecid fulfilled his wish in more ways than one as, just like Versailles, the palace’s grandeur and opulence caused widespread resentment, especially among the city’s poor.
Thirty-five tons of gold was used to decorate the ceilings, while the staircases are made of Baccarat crystal. The chandelier in the Ceremonial Hall, weighing four and a half tons, is said to be the largest in the world. I couldn’t help but feel resentment when our guide told us that it was an extravagant gift from Queen Victoria, who had offered little aid to her Irish subjects suffering through the Great Hunger just a few years earlier. However, a receipt was found in 2006 confirming that it was paid for in full by the Sultan himself, who tried to cover up his inappropriate use of public funds by claiming it was a gift from the Queen.
The palace witnessed the dissolution of the Ottoman Empire and the founding of the Republic of Turkey. It was occupied by the last six sultans and Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of the Turkish Republic, who spent his final years there. In 1984, the palace was converted into a museum.
Visitors tip: Take the guided tour (covered with the Istanbul Tourist Pass), as there are few signs or notices to indicate what you are observing.
Exploring Istanbul’s Asian side
The metro will take you to Üsküdar or Kadıköy on the other side of the Bosphorus, but the best way to get across continents is to take a scenic ferry ride and admire the historic Maiden’s Tower while crossing the Bosphorus Strait.
With a more relaxed vibe and fewer tourists, the Asian side of the city offers many restaurants, cool cafes, mouth-watering pastry shops, galleries and bookstores to explore.
Things to do and see:
- Take a walk along the shore to the Kadıköy Lighthouse.
- Visit the Haydarpaşa Train Station in Istanbul, a palatial building surrounded by water on three sides, which was built on land reclaimed from the Bosphorus.
- Stroll through the bustling Kadıköy Market,
full of foodie treats to satisfy every taste. - Take a ride on the historic tramway; it has only ten stops and takes a circular route through the colourful Moda district.
- There are 180 mosques in Üsküdar, including
the sixteenth-century Mihrimah Sultan Mosque that overlooks the waterfront. - Stop in one of the many cafes for a Turkish tea served in a cute tulip-shaped glass.
Bosphorus Sunset Cruise
For my final evening in Istanbul, I went on a sunset cruise with BosphorusTour by Velena Travel. This was the perfect opportunity to watch the sunset, admire the city skyline and view once more the city’s main attractions.
I also saw some beauties that I hadn’t managed to visit, including the exceptionally ornate Ortaköy Mosque, uniquely perched on the edge of the Bosphorus Bridge. We also cruised by the Rumeli Fortress, built by the Ottomans in 1452 as they prepared to conquer Constantinople.
Our guide entertained us with lots of fascinating facts and historic tales. As we passed under the beautifully illuminated Bosphorus Bridge, which spans 1,560 metres between Asia and Europe, he told us about Tiger Woods hitting golf balls from Europe to Asia across the bridge. Venus Williams has also played an exhibition match across the two continents on this iconic landmark.
The cruise leaves from the pier across from Kabataş metro station and can be booked at https://www.bosphorustour.com.
- ‘Istanbul: the city of the world’s desire’ is published in Anthology Volume 18. Read more features from this volume or buy it now.
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