Words Dolores O’Donoghue
Designers Hemant Sagar and Didier Lecoanet founded their label, Lecoanet Hemant, in the early eighties. They set up shop on the prestigious Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. Success came quickly, as did many awards, including the Golden Thimble or Le de d’or in 1994 for the best haute couture collection of the season. One of the most innovative fashion houses of the period, it attracted an affluent clientele, including European and Middle Eastern royalty and Hollywood stars.
In 2000, the duo changed direction and moved to Delhi, Sagar’s birthplace. Here they set up a factory focusing on ready-to-wear clothing. Although produced for a mass market, their collections retained the spirit and techniques of haute couture, combining fluid silhouettes with intricate detailing.
The brand actively promotes the concept of environmental responsibility, with pieces made from eco-friendly materials such as raffia, wood, shells and rice paper. In particular, they promote the use of ramie, one of the world’s oldest textile plants (a member of the nettle family).
From 18 June to 31 December 2022, the Calais Museum of Lace and Fashion is presenting a retrospective exhibition dedicated to the Lecoanet Hemant fashion house. It showcases more than forty years of designs, blending the art of French couture with the spirit of the East.
More than eighty pieces are included in the exhibition, from the first creations produced by Lecoanet Hemant at their Paris-based couture house to today’s ready-to-wear outfits designed in India.
- ‘Lecoanet Hemant’ is published in Anthology Volume 17. Read more features from this volume or buy it now.
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