Words Dolores O’Donoghue
The Victoria and Albert Museum, London, is to host the inaugural UK exhibition devoted to the work of French couturière, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel. The exhibition will trace the evolution of her iconic design style and the foundation of the House of Chanel, from the opening of her first millinery boutique in Paris in 1910 to the presentation of her final collection in 1971.
Showcasing over 180 looks, presented collectively for the first time, alongside jewellery, accessories, cosmetics and perfumes, the exhibition will explore Chanel’s pioneering approach to fashion design.
Photo: © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
Based on the Gabrielle Chanel Fashion Manifesto exhibition that premiered in Paris in 2020, organised by the Palais Galliera, Fashion Museum of the City of Paris, the London exhibition will also feature rarely seen pieces from the V&A’s own collection, alongside looks from Palais Galliera and the Patrimoine de Chanel, the heritage collections of the House of Chanel in Paris. Special pieces on display will include those created for British model Anne Gunning (later Lady Nutting) and Hollywood stars Lauren Bacall and Marlene Dietrich.
fringed and paillette embroidered skirt by Chanel.
Photo by Edward Steichen, published in Vogue US, 1926.
© Edward Steichen / Condé Nast / Shutterstock.
Gabrielle Chanel, Dress, 1935
Gabrielle Chanel, Dress and Jacket Suit, 1926
Gabrielle Chanel, Hat, 1917
Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel
A visionary fashion designer and entrepreneur who revolutionised the world of haute couture, Gabrielle Bonheur ‘Coco’ Chanel was born in 1883 in Saumur, France. Her mother died when Gabrielle was just eleven years old, and the little girl was subsequently sent to the convent of Aubazine, a home for abandoned and orphaned girls, where she learned how to sew.
She overcame her challenging childhood to become an iconic figure in the fashion industry. Her innovative methodology paved the way for a new feminine elegance, which continues to influence the way women dress today.
Chanel’s distinct style was characterised by simplicity, comfort and elegance, breaking free from the constraints of the corsets and extravagant fashions of her time. She introduced the iconic little black dress and the Chanel suit, and popularised jersey fabric. Her timeless designs and innovative use of materials captured the essence of modernity, empowering women to embrace a more liberated and practical wardrobe. Through her creative genius, Chanel not only transformed the way women dressed but also left an indelible mark on the evolution of fashion and luxury.
New York, 24 March 1955. Photo by Ed Feingersh.
© Ed Feingersh / Michael Ochs Archives / Getty Images.
Palais Galliera
The exhibition presented by the V&A was initially created by the Palais Galliera, Fashion Museum of the City of Paris, a permanent fashion museum established in 1977. It is located in the 19th-century building originally commissioned by the philanthropist Duchesse de Galliera.
The museum displays French fashion design and costumes spanning three centuries to the present day and has a collection of over 200,000 items. Notable highlights include garments owned by Marie-Antoinette, Louis XVII and Empress Joséphine. Additionally, the museum houses significant creations from acclaimed couturières such as Madame Grès, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent.
Gabrielle Chanel Fashion Manifesto will run from 16 September 2023 to 25 February 2024 at the Victoria and Albert Museum, South Kensington, London.
- ‘Gabrielle Chanel Fashion Manifesto’ is published in Anthology Volume 20. Read more features from this volume or buy it now.
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