Words Tom Weber
Bologna, the capital city of the Emilia-Romagna region of central Italy and the heartbeat of the affluent Po Valley, had until recently three distinct sides to its personality: La Dotta (The Learned) because the oldest university (1088) in the Western world – where Dante, Boccaccio and Petrarch were enrolled – was founded here; La Rossa (The Red), because of the terracotta roofs and, to a lesser degree, its penchant for left-leaning politics; and La Grassa (The Fat) because of all the tempting cuisine found within its postcode, like ragù, lasagne and mortadella paired with Lambrusco and Pignoletto wine.
Established by Etruscans in 6 BC, the tripartite division of Bologna has stood the test of time, but now there’s a new moniker nudging its way to the forefront – La Città dei Portici (The City of Porticoes).
No other metropolis on earth has more archways and arcades than this medieval grid of a city. In the Centro Storico alone, there are 42 km of covered pathways, with an additional 20 km of porticoes meandering outside the city gates. It’s an international record that Bologna has held dear for more than 900 years, which, together with its remaining twenty-two neck-craning towers, including the leaning Garisenda Tower, and its tasty tortellini – in brodo or with butter and sage – are the cornerstones of its urban identity.
In 2021, UNESCO inscribed a dozen of the most significant sections of the archways of Bologna as a World Heritage Site, recognising them as an identifying element of the city and proclaiming The Learned, The Fat and The Red to also be The City of Porticoes.
Strolling through the vaulted passageways – dry when it rains, shady and cool when it’s hot – you find yourself surrounded by these architectural masterpieces that have been built in brick, stone or wood since the 12th century, and where the citizenry of today continue to rub elbows, socialising and trading in an open-air, salon-like atmosphere.
The most famous and longest arcade in the world, stretching 3.79 km, is the Portico of San Luca. It starts at Porta Saragozza, one of the city’s original twelve gates, and is supported by a devilish 666 arches.
If you’re on foot – the absolute best way to experience this grand portico – you arrive at Arco del Meloncello, the halfway mark, crack a left and then it’s all uphill from there, sans defibrillators, to reach the Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca, a basilica that sits at the very top of Colle della Guardia, some 300 m above the rooftops of La Rossa. Catch your breath, have a look around, then do an about-face and head back, the best part of the walk because it’s all downhill.
In a hurry? Then hop on the San Luca Express, a tourist train that leaves Piazza Maggiore every half hour between 10 a.m. and 5:30 p.m. Or catch bus 20 in the city centre and ride it to Arco del Meloncello, alight and climb the remaining 2 km in the shadows of the remaining porticoes until you reach the basilica.
Whether on foot or tourist train or travelling by bus, you’ve got to experience the Porticoes of San Luca, just like you have to savour ragù, when visiting Bologna. After all, it’s not called La Grassa – or La Città dei Portici – for nothing.
- ‘Bologna: La Città dei Portici’ (The City of Porticoes) is published in Anthology Volume 19. Read more features from this volume or buy it now.
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