words edel cassidy
With its fairytale scenery of serene lakes and majestic mountain peaks, Austria is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts. While the Austrian Alps are world-renowned for skiing, this visit focused on biking and hiking around the picturesque towns and scenic landscapes of St. Anton and St. Johann in the Austrian Tyrol. The journey culminated in Salzburg, a city known for its rich cultural heritage – a fitting finale to my adventure in the heart of Austria.
St. Anton
This idyllic town, often referred to as the cradle of Alpine skiing, is deeply rooted in mountain tradition and culture. Its transformation into a world-renowned skiing destination began with the completion of the Arlberg Pass railway in 1884, which opened the region to tourism and economic growth. Pioneers like Hannes Schneider played a pivotal role in shaping its legacy, introducing the Arlberg technique, a revolutionary approach to ski instruction. St. Anton opened one of the world’s first ski schools in the early 20th century.
To learn more about the town’s rich skiing history, I visited the St. Anton Museum Restaurant, a venue that offers a truly unique experience. Located in a historic chalet mansion, it combines first-class modern mountain cuisine with a Ski and Local Heritage Museum.
As my visit fell outside the ski season, I had the chance to explore the remarkable outdoor experiences this destination offers beyond skiing. Here are a few highlights I highly recommend:
• At 2,811 metres, the Valluga summit provides one of the best views in the region. Take a cable car to the top, where on a clear day the viewing platform offers panoramic vistas stretching across Austria, Liechtenstein, Germany, Switzerland and Italy.
• I ventured on an e-bike ride to the Wagner Hütte, a cosy traditional hut serving local food and drinks. From there, I continued to the Konstanzer Hütte, located in a forest at 1,688 metres, for lunch. While parts of the route were steep, the e-bike made the journey manageable for anyone with a moderate fitness level.
• From the Konstanzer Hütte, a scenic hiking trail leads to Längsee, a beautiful mountain lake amidst high Alpine meadows in a protected nature reserve. Surrounded by lush greenery, the lake is renowned for its crystal-clear waters and tranquil beauty.
• The highlight of my visit was dinner at the Sennhütte, about a forty-minute hike from the town. Here, I encountered the world’s largest display of my namesake flower, the edelweiss, which was recognised by the Guinness World Records in 2017. Owned by Markus and Tanja Senn, the Sennhütte offers delicious Tyrolean specialities, local delicacies, homemade bread and unique herb-infused brandies and liqueurs.
St. Johann
‘We ate a soup and drank a pretty decent St. Johanner Bier with it,’ wrote Wolfgang A. Mozart to his mother about a stop in St. Johann en route to Italy. I had decided that my first stop here had to be at Huber Bräu, a brewery that dates back to 1727 – the very spot where Mozart enjoyed his brew. I, too, savoured an original Tyrolean dumpling soup with a classic St. Johanner Original.
However, there is much more to this municipality than its legendary beer. Located in the heart of the Kitzbühel Alps, it is a fantastic destination for skiing and snowboarding. It is also popular in summer, offering more than 200 km of marked hiking trails. Here are some of the more notable experiences of my visit:
• I joined Kitzalps Guide, Georg Weihs for a hike through the Kaiserbach valley nature reserve, a paradise for bikers and hikers. At the entrance, a memorial chapel honours those who lost their lives in the mountains. After a twenty-minute ascent through the Schnackler adventure trail, we visited Latschenbrennerei Hofmann, where mountain pine oil that offers antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties is traditionally extracted. It is added to an array of products from lip balm to schnapps – all available in their tiny shop.
• Dominating the main square in the town is a Baroque church, the Deanery Parish Church. It features splendid ceiling frescos by Kitzbühel artist Simon Benedikt Faistenberger. There is also intricate ceiling stucco work and a magnificent high altar.
• The St. Johanner Lederstadl in the town centre is run by Markus Ritsch, who gladly demonstrates how chamois leather is used to craft some of Tyrol’s finest Lederhosen. A staple of traditional Alpine dress for centuries, Lederhosen are still commonly worn in Austria today, often featuring intricate hand-stitched designs.
My final night in the Tyrol region was spent at the Angerer Alm, a luxury hut above St. Johann, run by Annemarie Foidl and her daughter Katharina. Both are not only outstanding cooks but also wine experts. The plan was for a scenic hour-long hike to the Alm, with luggage transported by car. However, due to an unexpected September snowfall, the roads became impassable, so we trekked through heavy snow with just overnight essentials.
Arriving at the snug hut was a relief, and warming by the fire with a hot punch was the perfect welcome. The evening included a cooking class with Katharina, where I learned traditional Tyrol recipes, followed by a tour of Annemarie’s remarkable wine cellar, which holds 6,000 vintage bottles. As Austria’s leading sommelier, her expertise was as impressive as the collection.
The snowfall continued through dinner, and there was talk of being snowed in, a prospect I didn’t mind given the plentiful wine and food. By morning, the trail was just navigable and it was time to bid farewell to the Angerer Alm and its warm hospitality as I prepared to descend the mountain and head for Salzburg.
- ‘Mountains, Music and Memories: An Austrian adventure’ is published in Anthology Volume 22. Read more features from this volume or buy it now.
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