Words and photos Dearbhaile Ní Dhubhghaill
Western France is often overlooked in favour of the glamorous allure of Paris or the sun-kissed Mediterranean coast, but it is here that I found a city transforming its past and future through the medium of art. Previously known primarily as an industrial hub, Nantes is gaining recognition for its unique blend of modern art, eco-conscious urban design and historical landmarks.
The beautiful architecture of the city’s historic centre is now intertwined with colourful artworks, large-scale exhibitions and events that embrace its creative community.
The Île de Nantes, an island located in the centre of the city, surrounded by two branches of the river Loire, has undergone a remarkable transformation from an abandoned industrial wasteland into a hub of contemporary culture, design and urban renewal.
Pass Nantes – the key to the city
An essential companion during my few days in the city, Pass Nantes is available for 24–72 hours, or even up to seven days. This convenient all-in-one pass gave me access to over 50 of Nantes’s top attractions. From museums to art installations, it unlocks all the must-see sights, along with free public transport and even boat cruises along the Loire.
Les Machines de l’Île
A fantastical journey through art, technology and imagination, the Machines of the Isle of Nantes was an absolute highlight of my visit. This one-of-a-kind experience is located in Parc des Chantiers, in the old shipyards, where talented machinists create a bestiary of living machines that come to life in the Galerie des Machines.
Outside, the iconic Grand Éléphant transports visitors across the park, while within the workshop, I watched engineers collaborating on their next project. Further along the Île’s coastline is Le Carrousel des Mondes Marins, with its extraordinary array of rideable machines, some seeming straight from the imagination of the city’s most famous son, Jules Verne, whose literary legacy is a central inspiration behind the attraction.
The Green Line
Spanning over twenty kilometres, this dedicated green trail links key attractions while promoting sustainable travel in the city. It’s a pedestrian-friendly path that showcases both the city’s urban art scene and its lush green spaces. More than 130 permanent artworks can be found along the line as it meanders through the downtown area, across the river and down the estuary. The Green Line formed the basis of my visit and provides the perfect itinerary for a city break.
Begin (or end) your journey at the Jardin des Plantes, an elegant botanical garden in the heart of the city, before continuing on to the Musée d’arts de Nantes, housed in a stunning 19th-century palais. With artworks dating from the 13th century to the present day, this museum is an essential exploration for any art lover.
Other stops along the line that highlight the diverse history of Nantes include the Jules Verne Museum, Passage Pommeraye – a beautiful Neo-Classical gallery lined with high-end boutiques – and Belvédère de l’Hermitage, a bird’s nest-like structure leaning out over the city with views along the Loire.
The historic centre
While the Île de Nantes is embracing the city’s future, the historic centre celebrates its past. From its imposing cathedral to the grand Château des ducs de Bretagne, I strolled down streets lined with art – some permanent, some temporary, some thought-provoking, some comedic. Murals adorning two-storey walls of Jules Verne ensure his enduring presence isn’t forgotten.
The city also doesn’t shy away from its darker history, with the Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery an important commemoration of Nantes’s place as the largest slave-trading centre of 18th-century France.
Within the Château, the Musée d’Histoire de Nantes offers a deep dive into the city’s complex past, while the castle’s architecture serves as a reminder of Nantes’s noble heritage. Stepping across the drawbridge into the impressive courtyard, I was reminded of how history and daily life intertwine here, where visitors pause to take in centuries of stories, and locals gather to enjoy a peaceful moment in the heart of their city.
- ‘Discovering Nantes: Where art and history mingle’ is published in Anthology Volume 24. Read more features from this volume or buy it now.
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